New Year's Eve 2012

It doesn’t matter where you were when 2012 rolled into 2013 or how you welcomed the New Year--quietly or with great fanfare—if you are lucky enough to be alive as another year begins, embrace it. It is a gift.

I prefer a quiet New Year’s Eve. Even a little solitude. It gives me a chance to reflect on the past year and plan for another. What worked well? What do I wish I had done differently? How shall I approach the New Year to make the most of it?  

Inevitably, I put pen to paper and record my New Year’s resolutions, thereby breathing life into what might otherwise remain ethereal visions. I have done this every year for as long as I can remember. 

I also knew that resolutions would be the subject of discussion around the New Year’s Eve dinner table and I wanted to be able to make a public commitment. Nothing goads one into action more than revealing to others what one has resolved, in private, to do (even if there are only four other people around the table).

Host Brian Smith at New Year's Eve Dinner

Our quiet dinner party was hosted by our good friend Brian, an English man I met nearly ten years ago in a... French immersion class (CREA Langues) in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, about an hour and a half from Lourmarin. To keep us fully immersed in French, we were strictly forbidden from speaking anything other than French; well, there were no guillotines in the courtyard, but peer pressure kept anyone from reverting to his or her native language.

CREA Langues Class in Moustiers (Susan - far left and Brian - fifth from left)

For me, with my French largely limited to first person, present tense sentences, it is actually amazing that we ever even got to know one another. Nevertheless, a friendship was forged that, years later, would set the stage for Brian, at 81 years old, to sell his homes in New York and move to Portsmouth, New Hampshire where he was now about to host a dinner party on New Year’s Eve.  

Somewhere between the curried black bean soup and the beef with mushroom gravy (served with a lovely Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains), resolutions surfaced and they continued through the dessert course of lemon butter crêpes and into the living room where we sat around the fire (with Piper-Heidsieck Champagne). Only the occasional cork popping from another bottle of wine diverted our attention.

With more years logged in than there are left to live, how we spend our remaining years takes on much greater importance. There is no time to waste. To be healthy and happy probably sums up the list. But how to attain health and happiness is an individual choice.

New Year's Day 2003 at Chez Bru in Eygalieres

For me, in 2013, I am going to write more, practice French more, and have more dinner parties. I am also going to play more squash and—drum roll—train for a 10K called “Marathon de Provence Luberon,” held in Pertuis (about 20 minutes from Lourmarin) on October 6, 2013. I don’t know what ensures health and happiness, but I think these resolutions will contribute to both.  

Writing my posts gives me great pleasure. Thanks to those of you who let me know that you have missed The Modern Trobadors in recent weeks. I am excited to be back at the key board and have lots of topics to cover: more about wine—including a tidbit about George Clooney buying a château near the famous Pitt-Jolie château—restaurants, markets, artists, French lessons, and the Luberon Vaudois, to mention just a few subjects.

Are you still looking for a public forum to reveal your resolutions? Let us all know here!

Still looking for inspiration for your resolutions? I will leave you with this short video—What Do You Desire?--narrated by British philosopher Alan Watts.

All across France today, on January 6th, parents are asking the youngest member of the family to sit under the table as dessert is being served. Pourquoi? Because it is the Day of the Epiphany and the Galette des Rois (the Cake of Kings) is being served.

"Je ne comprend pas," you say.

In France, the Day of the Epiphany--the end of the Twelve Days of Christmas--marks the day that the Three Kings brought their gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh to the manger in Bethlehem where the little Lord Jesus was asleep on the hay.

The word epiphany comes from the Greek word epiphaneia which means "manifestation or striking appearance," and, in Western Christian churches, came to name the day that commemorates when the Three Wise Men observation of the revelation of God in the form of a human being, Jesus Christ. Once more religiously significant than Christmas, today its observance (outside of some acknowledgement in church services) is largely confined to European countries, especially France, Italy, and Spain.

In France, not surprisingly, the celebration takes place around--and, well, under--the table and it centers around the Galette des Rois. This cake--actually cakes as there are regional variations--holds in it the prospect that someone at the table may become king or queen for the night. Somewhere inside the cake is tucked a trinket that determines who shall wear the crown. If you are lucky enough to be served the piece with the trinket, you will be the subject of the family coronation. (What benefits may come with this elevated status depend on those sitting around the table.)

The cake is traditionally sliced into enough pieces for each person to have one, plus an extra piece, referred to variously as part du Bon Dieu (God's piece), part de la Vierge (the Virgin Mary' s piece), or part du pauvres (the poor man's piece). The idea, of course, is for someone to be crowned--if your dinner party is small, this presents the obvious disappointment that your table may not have a king (or queen).

Back to the child under the table, his or her task is to designate who will receive each piece, thus eliminating the possibility of an ignoble accession to power. 

Our daughter happened to be the youngest guest at the first Epiphany celebration to which we were invited. We were traveling from Paris to Lourmarin in 2001 and stopped in Badecon-le-Pin to visit the family of a young man who had spent several weeks in our home the previous summer. This family had a real "Fête des Rois" that culminated in what was, to us at the time, a curious way to serve dessert. But, we quickly fell in love with the custom--and the galettes--and have made our own cakes many times since then.


The family we visited also has a lovely collection of trinkets from previous Galettes des Rois (in which the figurine stayed in the family). Tiny porcelain figures of baby Jesus and Mary, as you might expect, but also of cartoon characters such as Astrix and Obelix and Pepe-le-Pew. The original "prize," dating back hundreds of years, was a fava bean, lending its name, fève, to any trinket that might be hidden in the cake. (We used a very shiny penny, sterilized and wrapped in foil, in this year's cake.)

The most widely served Galette des Rois is the... Parisian version made with puff pastry and filled with almond frangipane. In Provence, the cake is made with a brioche dough, often flavored with orange-flower water and usually filled (or decorated) with candied fruit. While I like the Provence version, I love the light puff pastry filled with a luscious almond cream.

If you are in France, the galettes are widely available before and after the Epiphany.
This year, I am in Southern California with my family. No galettes in Carlsbad, California. At one of the local bakeries in town--one that calls itself French--the person behind the counter told me that I would have to come back at Easter "because that's when the Epiphany is celebrated," (leading me to conclude I might never come back).

So I made the galette. They are easy to make. A package of puff pastry, ground almonds, sugar, butter, vanilla, and eggs-- and a trinket--are about all you need.


My galette didn't resemble those I've seen in the patisseries in France--in fact, as I looked at the odd shaped blob of pastry resting on my mother's pink depression glass platter, it made me think of the turkey we spatchcocked, a la Martha Stewart, this past Thanksgiving.  But, I reminded myself, that was the best turkey we've ever had.


The cake was delicious, fortunately, because, for the sake of the blog, it was incumbent on the four of us to eat nearly the whole galette before the trinket was found. After all, how could I post an article about the Galette des Rois if there were no King or Queen? How could I have asked my sister-in-law to crawl under the table for no reason?


My mother was the lucky one to find the shiny penny wrapped in foil. She wore the crown proudly. As the residential monarch, she didn't wield her power as she could have but seemed quite content with her elevated status.


We retold the story of the Three Wise Men, "The Gift of the Magi," and the meaning of the Epiphany. It may seem like a silly custom to serve a cake with a hidden charm that determines who will be King or Queen for the evening, but, like most traditions, it provoked laughter as well as some conversations we undoubtedly would not have had. 

There is still time to make the galette and find a crown!

View of Le Vieux Port in Marseille       Photo: David Scott Allen

One of my scariest walks was to the Gare-de-Marseille-Saint-Charles. It was just as dawn was breaking and, having made a couple of wrong turns, the clock was moving uncomfortably close to the departure time of our train. Weighing the remaining minutes and the long distance to the Europcar office, my husband dropped my daughter and me off—along with a lot of luggage—so we could walk just a few blocks to the station while he deposited the rental car and ran the numerous blocks back to the station. Given the congested tangle of one-way streets, he dropped us off as close as possible, but I recall that walk as seeming to go on and on.

The sleeping homeless men that lined the sidewalks evoked no fear but the young men who emerged from the dark to approach us for money and who shouted at us from a distance were as unnerving as I can ever remember. I held my daughter’s hand tightly and gripped our bags as best I could. I instructed my daughter to look straight ahead and to walk quickly. In the distance I could see the gendarme patrolling the perimeter of the station. As they caressed their machine guns and watched us walk through the notoriously seedy streets of The French Connection, they elicited as much anxiety in me as they did comfort.

We lived to tell the tale, as they say, one that ended in a plush train car. When we finally sunk into our reserved seats, our daughter famously said, “Mom, do you want some pastis?”  

That was fifteen years ago when most tourists did not include this gritty Old Port on their itinerary. Today, France’s second-largest city is vibrant, colorful, and cleaned-up. (Well, okay, two out of three is not bad in Marseille—cleaning-up is a Sisyphean task down there.) 

A few blocks away from Le Vieux Port  Photo: David Scott Allen

After a 660 million euro ($865 million) public-private investment in cultural-arts attractions, Marseille hopes to shed its image as a hotbed of crime and drug-smuggling in exchange for a respectable reputation and a stop on everyone’s itinerary in the South of France. 

Tourists at le Vieux Port    Photo: David Scott Allen

The Old Port’s hopes moved closer today: As Marseille makes its official debut as... the 2013 European Capital of Culture this weekend, today’s New York Times lists this ancient Mediterranean port as #2 in “Where To Go In 2013.” 


“The European Capital of Culture” is a coveted title awarded to two European cities each year to highlight their “internationally recognized cultural scenes.” (Kosice, Slovakia is the other city in 2013.) After submitting a proposal describing how the city will develop an international cultural-arts project that reflects the region and has wide audience appeal, a two-year long selection process begins. Programs in “dance, music, theatre, heritage, and contemporary art” are considered as well as those in “science and technology, sport, cuisine and popular culture.” Created in 1985 to “bring the people of Europe closer together,” the title was first awarded to Athens, Greece; since then, thirty cities have received the honor and the concomitant economic and social benefits. The title will not be given to another city in France for at least ten years.

With over 400 cultural events planned for 2013 and nearly 60 brand new or newly renovated exhibition and performance spaces opening, Marseille will be on my list of places to go this year. It is just an hour from Lourmarin, our home base in Provence, so we usually make a stop in the Vieux Port, if only for a café and some wonderful people-watching, as we make our way to Les Calanques. This year, I hope to make Marseille a day-trip to visit at least one of the exhibitions.

Susan and Towny at Torrefaction Centrale Cafe in Marseille

“Painters and the Mediterranean” will focus on some of the most famous artists who took up residence in the region—van Gogh, Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso, Bonnard, and de Stael, all of whom painted scenes of the South of France between 1880 and 1960. This exhibition will be hosted by Marseille’s Palais Longchamp and Aix-en-Provence’s Musée Granet.

Le Silo d'Arenc

Look also for exhibitions and performances in Le Silo d’Arenc, a granary built in 1926 and newly transformed into a performance center; MuCEM, a museum of “European and Mediterranean Civilizations;” the J1, a hangar near the Old Port that has been converted to a welcome center and an exhibition space; the Regional Center of the Mediterranean where, among many attractions, there is an underwater gallery; and Regards de Provence Museum, a former maritime sanitary control station built in 1948 and recently renovated to showcase exhibitions. 

North African Market in Marseille

There are many other reasons to visit Marseille. Our favorites include the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, a huge Romanesque-Byzantine basilica built in the mid-19th century, that offers gilded beauty inside and a panoramic view of the harbor outside; the North African Market with enticing scents and interesting tastes; and the city’s famous bouillabaisse. Nearby, consider a 30-minute boat trip to an island where you can visit Château d’If, the 16th-century fortress-turned-prison made famous by Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monté Christo or 30-minute drive toward Cassis to visit Les Calanques, the fjord-like inlets filled with beautiful crystal-clear water. 

Les Calanques

As Marseille begins its year as a Cultural Capital of Europe, there are high hopes that the expected injection of a billion euros into the city will help to loosen the grip that crime has long held on Marseille. In 2011, compared to the previous year, robbery was up (23%), burglaries increased (14%), and armed robberies went up (40%). The murder rate increased by 9% in the first three months of 2011. By way of comparison, though, with 245 homicides over the last five years, your chances of being murdered in Marseille, according to my rough calculations, are about the same as in New York and much better than in Chicago. Almost a quarter of the murders in Marseille is linked to drugs and organized crime.  

In addition to drugs and organized crime, with the unemployment rate of 12.1 %—and reportedly over 40% in the city’s youth of North African descent--the city suffers from the consequent poverty and social problems that are linked to crime. Corruption in the police department as well as police officers who have just plain “given up” on reining in the drug lords and mob figures further contribute to city’s efforts to combat these problems.

Neither these statistics nor my walk to Gare-de-Marseille-Saint-Charles will deter me from visiting Marseille. But both underscore the importance of practicing common sense (that should be used anywhere). Don’t leave valuables in your car; don’t flaunt your wealth, which includes money and jewelry but also smart phones and tablets; don’t veer off the beaten well-lit path; and pay attention. 

View from Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde

Marseille is France’s oldest city. The Phoenicians landed in 600 B.C. The Romans passed through some 500 years later and then the Visigoths and Germanic tribes and lord knows how many Kings before Marseille became part of the Republic of France. It survived the Bubonic Plague and the Great Plague. It survived the Second World War. I suspect it will survive the challenges spawned by today’s urban problems.


With its new title as Europe’s Cultural Capital (and its New York Times endorsement), I hope many people will include Marseille on their itinerary. I suggest you choose Lourmarin as your home base and make Marseille a day-trip.

Not fondue...the other Swiss meal with the French name—raclette.

In the United States, nearly everyone is familiar with cheese fondue, but very few people know about raclette. And yet, it is said to be more popular in its native country than fondue.
So what is raclette? It refers to both the popular Swiss meal and the cheese that is at the center of that meal. Pronounced rah-KLET, it comes from the French word, racler, which means “to scrape.” In its most basic form, it is just melted cheese served with boiled potatoes (fingerling or new), cornichons (small pickled cucumbers), pickled onions, and some bread.

The Canton de Valais, one of 26 districts in Switzerland, is in the heart of the Alps—home of the Matterhorn (4478 m / 14691.6 ft.)--and is where raclette is said to have originated. It lies in the southwestern corner of Switzerland, bordering France and Italy. Both French and German are spoken in this canton (although it would not be uncommon to hear Italian as well).

Raclette was first called “Bratchäs,” a German word for “roasted cheese” or the French equivalent, “fromage roti.” It was not until the beginning of the 20th century, when the melted cheese was served at a 1909 Canton de Valais exhibition of regional wines, that the cheese and the meal were christened “raclette.”

Berghoff raclette cheese

The complicated and factious situation in West Africa, now centered in the former French colony Mali, has been difficult to fully understand without a background in the long history and politics of West and North Africa, its people (especially the Tuareg) and the emerging network of terrorist groups, some of which are connected to al-Qaeda. Having a good map is helpful, too.

Beyond a recent acquaintance with the Tuareg, a vague notion of the location of Mali’s famous Timbuktu, a mental image of Mali’s neighboring countries, and an appreciation of the region’s music, I didn’t know much more. Articles I found helpful in elucidating this conflict, including why we should be concerned, can be found at the end of this post. The subject I want to focus on here, in this post, is the French Foreign Legion (FFL).


As just about everyone knows, two weeks ago, France sent troops to Mali in an effort to regain control of the northern half of that West African country, where cities had been overtaken by Islamic rebels months ago. But did you know that the French Foreign Legion (FLL) was deployed as part of the 2500 soldiers from the French army? And did you know those FFL soldiers—the exact number not disclosed—are part of the cavalry regiment that is stationed in the Provençal city of Orange?

Having always had a romanticized view of the Légion étrangère-- handsome, virile men from around the globe who enlist so they can start lives anew, adopt a nom de guerre, forge a new identity, leave a wild past behind—I wondered if this was accurate.  What is this Foreign Legion?


The French Foreign Legion was formed in 1831 by King Louis Philippe. Its creation served two needs: it allowed France to funnel its undesirables (e.g., political enemies, criminals, social outcasts, and other generally disruptive sorts) into productive... service and reinforcements were needed for France’s war in Algeria. It was and still is part of the French Army, but consisted of only a few French men and, by law, was not allowed to fight in France itself.

The Legion remained in Africa for most of the rest of the 19th century, protecting and expanding France’s colonial empire, but troops were also sent to Spain, Crimea, Italy, Mexico, Madagascar, and, later, in France when, I guess laws were changed to permit in-country service.

Popular Culture helped romanticize the FFL

During the 20th century, the services of the Foreign Legion continued to be in heavy demand, most notably in WWI where their reputation for bravery and espirit de corps reached its pinnacle, WWII, and the Algerian War.

In recent years, the Legion has been sent to Bosnia, Cambodia, Chad, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Republic of the Congo, Djibouti, French Guiana, Gabon, Iraq, Ivory Coast, Kosovo, Kuwait, Rwanda, and Somalia. Very recently, they were in Afghanistan, Ivory Coast, and Central African Republic.

Today, the FFL consists of over 7,000 enlisted men and non-commissioned officers. In 2008, volunteers came from 140 different countries. William Langewiesche, in a December 2012 article in Vanity Fair described a meeting with 43 recruits in training and reported that those particular recruits came from 30 different countries: Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Brazil, Britain, Canada, the Czech Republic, Ecuador, Estonia, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, Madagascar, Mongolia, Morocco, Nepal, New Zealand, Poland, Portugal, Russia, Senegal, Serbia, Slovakia, South Africa, and Ukraine.  Americans certainly join the Legion, too, although I was unable to establish the extent to which they are represented.

One can imagine that the language problem is huge, especially with so many of the drill instructors being from a country other than France. Sign language and French language lessons are very common.

Applicants to this fabled force must pass a serious of rigorous tests—physical, psychological, intelligence, medical, and motivational—as well as a background check and interview. While candidates with serious criminal backgrounds (e.g., murder) are now likely to be screened out, a large dose of “don’t ask, don’t tell” still exists to ensure that minor criminal backgrounds can be overlooked when the less-than-savory candidate passes the grueling tests. “A chance for a new life” is still part of the recruitment appeal. But, such a new life is only possible for men between the ages of 18 and 40. The starting monthly salary is 1043 euros (about $1400 USD) and includes "room and board" and 45 vacation days (and you get your own kepi blanc!).

Kepi Blanc

If you are interested, there are 11 different recruiting centers in France and much more information on their website in thirteen European languages. You have to be willing to commit to the Legion for five years and, at the end of that time, you may apply for French citizenship.



The headquarters of the FFL is located in Aubagne, just located 17 km (11 mi) east of Marseille and is most known as the birthplace of well-known novelist and playwright Marcel Pagnol (1895–1974) who produced two of my favorite French films, Manon des Sources and Jean de Florette.

The Legion’s only cavalry regiment is located in Orange, a city most known for its Roman roots which are revealed in its famous Théâtre Antique and Arc de Triomphe.



So, about that romanticized view of the Foreign Legion....In reality, there is nothing remotely romantic about going to war.  Langewiesche, in his Vanity Fair piece, wrote that "There is no other force in the world today that has known so much war for so long." 

Nonetheless, the Légion étrangère maintains its allure.  A brand new start in life can be very appealing.


Articles and Photographs about the Mali conflict:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/worldviews/wp/2013/01/16/9-questions-about-mali-you-were-too-embarrassed-to-ask/

http://www.theatlantic.com/infocus/2013/01/the-conflict-in-mali/100446/

http://www.aljazeera.com/indepth/spotlight/mali/

www.legion-recrute.com

View from Menerbes: The Roman "centuriation" system

With so many reasons to visit Provence’s Lubéron, it’s hard to choose just one to sit at the top of the list. There’s the sunshine, the lighting, the laid-back lifestyle, the Roman ruins, the bories, the hiking, the biking, the fêtes, the markets, the food, the wine, the lavender, the perched villages and their narrow winding streets, the art, the music, the châteaux, the fabrics, the antiques, and so on. The wine certainly hovers around the top of this long list of reasons that, for us, the Luberon always beckons.

Wines were produced in this area long before the Romans arrived; but when they arrived in 124 B.C., just a year after landing in Marseille, they certainly contributed to organizing the vineyards. They divided the land into squares about 2,330 feet on each side and distributed the plots to the most deserving of its army commanders. Called the “centuriation” system, this grid of square plots can easily be seen from one of the hilltop villages and is worth a stop to take a look when you are on your way to taste wine in the Luberon. Other evidence of Roman occupation can be found on several properties that I recommend visiting.

Vestiges of Roman occupation can be seen at Chateau La Canorgue

French Wine Regions and Appellations
Before you begin your winetasting tour of the area, it may make sense to review the basics of the French system of organizing vineyards (and regulating wine production). If you are already familiar with this complex system (or just want to get to the winetasting part), skip the next few paragraphs and dive right into our recommendations.

French Wine Regions

In contrast to the United States, for example, where grape variety drives organization, in France, geography drives organization (in the broadest sense). There are thirteen regions that produce most of the wine in... France. Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and the Loire are probably the most familiar regions to the average person outside of France. In Provence, there are two major wine regions: Provence and the Rhone Valley.

Rhone Valley appelations

Each of the major wine regions is further divided in to appellations. There are over 300 wine appellations that have been designated by the Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité (previously called Institut National des Appellations d'Origine and still identified as INAO), a branch of the French Ministry of Agriculture. Officially referred to as an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) or “controlled designations of origin,” wines produced in a particular AOC must adhere to strict laws governing the geographical origin, production (including the types and percentages of grapes used), quality, and style of  wine. (The same organization also grants appellation status to other agricultural products such as cheese, butter, meat, honey, and lavender.)

About half the wines produced in France meet the AOC criteria. The others are labeled Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDQS, about 10%), Vin de Pays (about 33%), or Vin de Table (around 12%). The AOC wine is not necessarily better than the VDQS or the Vin de Pays wine, but it is very likely better than the table wine (that only needs to meet the criteria that the producer and the origin are from France).

In 1951, Luberon wines were designated as VDQS status, meaning that these wines were waiting to become AOC wines. In 1988, the wines finally met the criteria to be designated AOC.

Now, to make things just a little more confusing, after six years of planning, the wine classification system was overhauled and a revised one was introduced in 2012. Essentially, the changes are as follows: the AOC wines are now be referred to as Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) wines; the Vin de Pays wines were replaced by a category called Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP); and the Vin de Table label was replaced by the label Vin de France. The VDQS wine category was dropped; wines that would have fallen in that category need to be elevated to AOP wines or lowered to IGP wines.

Lubéron Wine 

Lubéron wine, also known as Côtes du Lubéron wine, is an AOP that is part of the Rhone Valley region, specifically the Southern Rhone Valley. It is approximately 2700 hectares (6671 acres) in size and comprises 36 villages in the Vaucluse department of Provence and around 450 vineyards. It lies adjacent to the Côtes du Ventoux AOC (7000 hectares) and many producers make wines for both appellations.

About 60% of the Lubéron wines made are red; 20% are rosé, and 20% are white. AOP Lubéron wines must be produced from a blend of several varieties. Reds and rosés are made primarily with the AOP permitted varieties of Syrah, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault; secondary permitted varieties include Picpoul Noir, Counoise Noire, Gamay Noir, and Pinot Noir. (Reds may include up to 10% white grape varieties and rosés may include up to 20% white grape variety.) White wines rely on the permitted varieties of Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Vermentino, Clairette Blanche, and Bourboulenc; secondary grapes include Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier.

Lubéron Wine Tour

Lourmarin, the charming village where we have been fortunate to stay for long stretches of time, lies at the southern entrance to the Lubéron . It is a wonderful base from which to explore the vineyards of the Lubéron (and, Provence, in general).

Florian Girbal at Les Caves du Château

If you are staying in Lourmarin, we recommend starting in the village itself: at Les Caves du Château—Cave à Vin, located, as the name suggests, beneath the village château, and at La Cave à Lourmarin, otherwise known as the wine cooperative, located on the place Henri Barthelemy. Both places offer tastings and wines to purchase.

In the Cave at the Château, under the knowledgeable and fun tutelage of Florian Girbal, you may sample wines, depending on what’s open, from the all the major producers in the Côtes du Lubéron. (He also has wines from the Côtes de Provence, the Côtes du Ventoux, Pierrevert, Bandol, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, to mention just a few appellations.)

If you are able to visit just a few châteaux and are not sure which ones to include, taste and/or buy a few bottles for a tasting. All of the Lubéron wineries offer drop-in tastings; no appointments are necessary.

The wine cooperative in Lourmarin

In the Lourmarin Cave, you will find wines made from local grapes in the cooperative and wines from smaller vintners in the area. Recently, this cooperative began working with grapes from Cadenet, Lauris, and Cucuron, too. Wine may be purchased in the bottle or you may bring your own containers to fill. Two stand outs are the highly acclaimed Terrasses Sarrazines (white) and the very popular Domaine de la Bastide de Rhodares (red).

Our Favorite Producers in the Lubéron

Aureto Vignobles
Gargas
Telephone: 04 90 74 54 67
www.aureto.fr

Wine has been produced on this site since the 13th century. Cave Aureto emerged in 2007 when the current Swiss owners, Werner and Carmen Wunderli, with investor Andy Rhis, bought Cave Coquillade and renamed the winery for the gentle breeze, “Aureto,” that blows across the warm Provence countryside. The name of the estate, Le Domaine de la Coquillade, was retained and is evidenced by the small bird that graces the label and barrels.


The vineyards fall into two Appellations d’Origine Protégée (formerly AOC): Ventoux and Luberon. The winery also produces an Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP, formerly VDP): Vaucluse. As faithful Trobador readers know, good friend Pierre Schott is the retail caviste of the winery’s cellar and you may recall that we really like the IGP rosé that they produce; but we also thoroughly enjoy their reds and whites.

Pierre Schott in the tasting room at Aureto

The winery shares the property with La Coquillade, a 28-room luxurious Relais & Châteaux hotel, a gastronomic restaurant, a piano bar, and one of our favorite casual restaurants, Le Jardin dans les Vignes. This winery, nestled in a beautiful setting, is an ultra-modern facility and, with the very knowledgeable and friendly host, Pierre, is sure to be fun and informative. We highly recommend a stop for wine tasting followed by dinner overlooking the vineyards.

Château Constantin Chevalier
Lourmarin
Telephone: 04 90 68 38 99



Chateau Constantin-Chevalier      Photo:Mark Sammons

I have visited Château Constantin-Chevalier several times. I had the pleasure of meeting Allen Chevalier, who with his wife Marie-Laure, bought the Château in 1990 with the goal, I am told, of making the best wines they could. Their dedication, I am told, transformed the winery into what we see today. Although I am always raving about their rosés, it is their wonderful white wine that has garnered the most attention, with many awards of distinction. The 2009 Pétale de Rosé—composed of equal parts of Syrah and Grenache—is one of my very favorites. Peter Mayle raves about this vineyard.


Sadly, Monsieur Chevalier passed away about two years ago. We hope that whoever has purchased Château Constantin-Chevalier will keep the dreams of this family alive.

Château de l’Isolette
Apt
Telephone: 04 90 74 16 70

My husband rates all the wines from this château—all colors—as being exceptionally well-made, well-balanced, and pleasant. Their reserve wines have greater complexity than standard labels but all are excellent. Therefore, we always stop off at Château de l’Isolette, usually at their tasting room on Route d’Apt (separate from the château). But, the château is worth a detour to see their wine-making museum.



The château has been in the same family since 1635. Laure Pinatel-Gilles and her husband Denis Gilles now run the business, having taken the reins from Laure’s parents, Micheline and Luc Pinatel.

In addition to my husband, Pierre Cardin also likes their wines-- so much that he has signed wine labels for the château and featured their wine at his restaurant Maxim’s in Paris.

Château de Mille
Apt
Telephone: 04 90 74 11 94
www.chateau-de-mille.com

This 12th century château looks like a castle on which you would expect to see a huge dragon swoop in and land. It is fantastic—there are windows of many sizes and shapes and part of the building itself was build atop a large rock formation. Wine has been made here since the Middle Ages and the medieval vats and wine press, carved out of rock, are there to prove it. The château was originally the summer home of Pope Clement V.


The Pinatel family has owned the estate since 1780. Interestingly, from 1916 to 1939, it was part of the Côtes du Rhône appellation, then part of Côtes de Provence, then part of Côtes du Ventoux and, now, part of the Côtes Luberon. Conrad Pinatel, the current owner, once wrote on his wine label, “Regimes pass, appellations change, quality remains.”

Robert Parker writes that this winery “produces some of the best and most expensive wines in the Lubéron .”

The reds are highly acclaimed and we can attest to the fact that they age very well. They also make excellent whites and fine pinks.

Château de Val Joanis
Pertuis
Telephone : 04 90 79 20 77
www.val-joanis.com

 
This château is build on the foundation of a Roman villa that produced wines that were good enough to send back to Rome over 2000 years ago. In 1977, Jean-Louis Chancel bought the property and, for the next two decades, worked diligently to restore the vineyards—he planted 186 hectares—and the winery. Beautiful terraced gardens, designed by Tobie Loup de Viane, were also installed and are now a draw in addition to the wine. The wines—AOP and IDP--are good and the grounds are lovely.  It is a welcome stop after a visit to Pertuis.

Château Fontvert
Lourmarin
Telephone : 04 90 68 35 83
www.fontvert.com

Although I have jogged by this château for over a decade, I had never visited the winery until this summer. I tasted their wines many years ago when they were one of the only wines available in the village convenience store (for 3 euros, maybe even less) and I thought they were awful. Now, I hasten to write that they produce some wonderful wines and we highly recommend a visit to Château Fontvert. If you are staying in Lourmarin, you can easily walk (or jog) there, as I did for the first time in August of this year.

Château Fontvert was founded in 1598. Since that time, the same Huguenot family has overseen the estate. The past decade has seen major operating changes at this winery and the wines demonstrate the success of this renewed dedication to wine making.  Great emphasis continues to be placed on bioligique wines.

Our visit to this winery was the surprise hit of the summer 2012 tastings. We tasted some excellent wines with a very knowledgeable young man, Alex. Although we arrived shortly before closing (for which we apologized), he was as welcoming as could be and encouraged us to stay after hours. We were having so much fun that we did stay on. We had already purchased so many wines that I wasn’t sure our luggage could accommodate all of them, but we so thoroughly enjoyed the Fontvert limited-production wines that we couldn’t resist buying more.

Robert Parker also tasted their wines in August 2012. The Château Fontvert rouge 2010 received a rating of 89 (out of 100) and the Mourre Nègre 2010 received a 90-92+.

Château La Canorgue
Bonnieux
Telephone : 04 90 75 81 01

The 17th century chateau is elegant and the grounds are lovely, including especially the vestiges of the Roman villa that occupied the area 2000 years ago. All will be familiar to many visitors, as Ridley Scott’s A Good Year (based on Peter Mayle’s book by the same name) was filmed, in part, on the property in 2005.



The estate has been in the same family for over 200 years, but it wasn’t until the 1970s when Martine and Jean-Pierre Margan took over from Martine’s parents, that serious wine making began. Today, the vineyards are certified biologique (the first organic vineyard in the Luberon), a brand new cellar is in the works, and awards are piling up.

Wine label from the movie A Good Year

Fortunately we visited this estate in the late 1990s, before all the Good Year hoopla that undoubtedly deluged the château with tour buses and trespassing tourists toting cameras. When we visited La Canorgue this past August, we were met by a very dour woman (not Madame Margan) who declined to pour even one tasting for us (or the English couple who had arrived 10 minutes before us). We had arrived too late, at 11:50, she scolded us. (The English couple was too late at 11:40 apparently.) She was closing for lunch at noon. It was her manner more than her message that was so off-putting. Perhaps it was just an off day for her or perhaps the effects of the Good Year invasion linger on. Either way, no wine tasting at La Canorgue that day.

Château La Verrerie
Puget sur Durance
Telephone : 04 90 08 32 98
www.chateau-la-verrerie.fr

The literal translation of this château is "The Glass Castle" which, interestingly, alludes to the elegance of these wines and the precision with which they are made. Peter Mayle is said to have described wine maker Jacky Coll as an “architect of wine.” Imagine an architect of a glass castle.

This property was brought to life in 1981 by businessman Jean-Louis Descours and his son Gérard. Today, wines from this château are revered across the Luberon and indeed all of France. Most known for their reds (of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault), they also produce whites and rosés.

We have not been to this winery for probably eight years; at that time, their prices were not commensurate with the outstanding quality of their wine. Prices have been inching up as the wines continue to get even better. Although we frequently enjoy their wines in restaurants while in France, writing this post makes me want to visit Chateau La Verrerie as soon as I return to Provence.


Domaine de la Citadelle
Menerbes
Telephone : 04 90 72 31 20
www.domaine-citadelle.com

This is one of our favorite stops for the wine, of course, but also to visit the Corkscrew Museum, Le Musée du Tire-Bouchon, that includes over 1000 corkscrews, some dating as far back as 400 years.


Located just outside Ménerbes, on 45 hectares (110 acres) of vineyards, it is a lovely spot. The owner, Yves Roussett-Rouard, is the current mayor of Ménerbes and a former film producer (most notably Emmanuelle). He is also the good friend of a family friend of ours, so we had the pleasure of meeting this patrician man who would easily be cast in a movie as the very successful winemaker that he is. His son, Alexis, now oversees the winemaking.



The wines produced here are more complex, refined, and elegant than many of the other Luberon wines. My husband is a huge fan of the reds although all the wines are exceptional. Most of the wines are AOP Luberon although this Domaine also makes some wonderful IGP Vaucluse wines from single varieties; the Viognier is particularly good.

Domaine des Vaudois
Cabrières d’Aigues
Telephone : 04 90 77 60 87
www.domainedesvaudois.com

We had the distinct pleasure of spending the morning interviewing Claude Aurouze, capped off with a lunch at a Cucuron restaurant that serves his wines. His wife is a descendent of the Vaudois, a Christian sect that was persecuted by the Catholic Church in the 16th and 17th centuries, and the property that now houses the wine cave has been in her family since the 17th century. It was a fascinating conversation about the Vaudois in the Lubéron ; their persecution and the devastation of several Lubéron villages; the introduction of wines from the Lubéron to South Africa when the Vaudois fled to the tip of Africa (via a long circuitous route); and the return of many South Africans to the Lubéron to understand their roots. I am in the process of writing about this memorable day with Monsieur Aurouze for a future post. But I digress….

Susan interviews Claude Aurouze with Walter Geiser (on the left)

It is well worth a stop at the Domaine des Vaudois to taste some good Lubéron wines and a very interesting IGP Vaucluse wine of Viognier; but more so to chat with this very interesting man. The wine cave is part troglodyte, meaning that it was once a (real) cave.


His son, Francois, runs the winery so I am not sure how frequently Monsieur Aurouze is there but you could call ahead and find out. It is a very small operation with 20 hectares of land, three quarters of which are dedicated to vines and one quarter of which is planted with olive trees (that produce a delightful olive oil). A few blocks from the wine cave, visitors may visit their restored olive oil mill.

Remember to have a designated driver or to use the spittoon. Santé!

“Postcards from France” was inspired by the current exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts (MFA) in Boston entitled “The Postcard Age: Selections from the Leonard A. Lauder Collection,” featuring over 700 miniature pieces of art from his very sizable collection of postcards. Today’s post focuses on postcards of Provence and the Côte d’Azur and what I learned from the curator of this MFA exhibit about the history of postcards. Next week’s post will feature postcards from the other regions of France and I will present what I learned about Mr. Lauder’s collection of postcards. I am grateful to two friends from France who made their postcard collections available to The Modern Trobadors.

 

Today's Café Gaby lies where rue de Henri Savournin appears to end, on the left.

When I am in Lourmarin, I can be found many a morning at Café Gaby. Look for my table at Gaby’s along the rue de Henri Savournin. It’s the one with a grand crème, the International Herald Tribune, and a stack of postcards. I am the one busily scribbling notes to friends and family on my carefully selected postcards. (My husband is the one bemoaning the cost of postage.)
I love postcards…both to send them and receive them. (Thanks Gerry and Ben for the postcard last week!)

A recently received postcard

I like the artsy photographs like the ubiquitous rows of brightly colored lavender or the classic Provençal storefront such as Lourmarin’s (in)famous Super Taf II or the perfectly kept 2CV with a cat nonchalantly bathing...
itself on the hood. (If you’ve been to Provence, you know the ones!)

Postcards of the photos of popular tourist sites also speak to me. For example, Lourmarin’s château and the village Protestant church; Cucuron’s Étang; or Vaugine’s 11th century church.  Watch the slideshow below to see early 20th century postcards of Lourmarin and the surrounding area. (Wait for the show to load and then enjoy!)


Click on the postcard below to see a slideshow of postcards we might have sent from Marseille in the early 1900's:

This is the second of two posts inspired by Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts exhibition entitled “The Postcard Age: Selections from the Leonard A. Lauder Collection,” on view through April 14, 2013. Showcasing around 700 postcards from Mr. Lauder’s massive collection—which he recently gifted to the MFA—it is an immensely interesting and fun exhibition. The first post, last week, entitled “Postcards from France: Provence and the Côte d’Azur,” focused on the postcard craze that swept across the world around the turn of the 20th century and showed postcards from a friend’s collection of images from the South of France. This post focuses more on what inspired Mr. Lauder and shows postcards from other regions.

At tonight’s Academy Awards, this wonderful movie is in contention for five Oscars: Best Picture, Best Actress in a Leading Role, Best Director, Best Foreign Language Film, and Best Original Screenplay. Sadly, Jean-Louis Trintignant was not nominated for Best Actor.

Amour is not a movie for everyone. It is an emotionally-raw, starkly honest, and intensely intimate film about the love between two octogenarian music teachers who have been married so long that they know one another other as well as they know themselves. Their devotion is tested by the downward spiral of Anne (played by Emmanuelle Riva) following a debilitating stroke and subsequent unsuccessful surgery. Her husband Georges (played by Mr. Trintignant) takes on the painfully difficult task of caring for her. As Georges’ vibrant wife devolves into a spirit-less shell before his eyes, we watch how he struggles to cope. It feels intrusive to sit in the audience.

Last weekend brought another snowy Sunday to New England….and to parts of Provence. It snowed unusually hard in the Var where Trobador reader Pamela O’Neill said she had to brush off several centimeters of snow from her car. But the roads were so icy she could not go anywhere. So, what to do? If she were on this side of the Atlantic, we would have asked her to join us….

 And what does a small group of Francophiles do in New Hampshire? Ah, mais bien sur, they gather ‘round the piano to listen to the music of France’s most famous chanteuse.

Édith Piaf, born Édith Giovanna Gassion in 1915, embodied in abundance what the French value in being French—tenacity, strength, romantic triumph and tragedy, survivalism, passion, and patriotism—all rolled into one tiny and nervous 4 foot, 8 inch frame. Known, as La Môme Piaf—“The Little Sparrow”—this petite powerhouse rose from the gritty working-class streets of Belleville-Menilmontant to cultural icon status during World War II with her incomparable spirit and songs like Mon Légionnaire.*

Piaf was born into a family in the entertainment business (although not the sort of entertainment that provided a regular paycheck). Her mother, Annetta Giovanna Maillard (1895 – 1945) was a café singer with... Italian, Moroccan and French roots. Her French father, Louis-Alphonse Gassion (1881 – 1944) was a street performer who occasionally found a stage. His mother, with whom Edith lived from 1916 to 1929, owned a brothel in Normandy. The prostitutes are said to have been fond of the young girl and to have tended to her needs, including medical care. (They even arranged to have young Edith sent to Lisieux, the second largest pilgrimage center for spiritual healing, to treat her loss of eyesight due to keratitis, an infection that stems from herpes simplex virus.). At age 14, in 1929, young Piaf began working with her father in his street performances that took them around the country but she left him before long to perform on her own in Paris. At 17, she gave birth to her only child Marcelle who died two years later to meningitis.

Young Edith Piaf

In 1935 at age 20, while singing on streets of the Pigalle area of Paris, Piaf was discovered by nightclub owner, Louis Leplée. He instilled confidence in the promising performer, gave her the famous moniker that would later become part of her stage name, and promoted her toward stardom. But, Leplée was murdered the next year and Piaf was initially accused of being an accessory to his murder. Although she was acquitted, her career suffered from the negative publicity surrounding the case and prompted Ms. Piaf to seek help to change her image. As part of this effort, she changed her name to “Edith Piaf” and enlisted Marguerite Monnot, who had already composed songs for Piaf, to begin writing songs that incorporated the story of how the singer was able to overcome her impoverished past.

By the 1940s, Piaf’s career was back on track. She co-starred in a one-act play, Le Bel Indifférent, by Jean Cocteau; she befriended people like Maurice Chevalier, Jacques Borgeat, and Yves Montand (whose later fame Piaf is credited with establishing); and began to write her own lyrics. During the War when she is said to have performed for German forces and to have worked for the Resistance, her fame soared nationally and internationally.

Edith Piaf and Marcel Cerdan

As 1950s commenced, Piaf’s personal life careened off track. In 1949, her lover Marcel Cerdan, world champion (French) middleweight boxer, was killed in a plane crash. Two years later, Piaf sustained serious injuries in an automobile accident, leading to morphine prescriptions and eventual addiction. Two other serious car crashes followed and contributed to her continued addiction in spite of several rehabilitation attempts. She married Jacques Pills, also a singer, in 1952 and divorced him in 1956.   

In spite of her drug and alcohol problems, Piaf continued to perform in Europe and abroad. In the mid-1950s, in the U.S. where her appeal was slow to emerge, she appeared on The Ed Sullivan Show eight times and at numerous packed venues around the country, including two appearances at Carnegie Hall.

Trobador reader Bob Haft and his wife Vicky are among those who got to see Piaf perform. “It was a long time ago,” Haft laughed. Indeed it was as long as 60 years ago. Since I can barely remember where I saw musicians when I was young (like Jimi Hendrix in the 1960s), I understand when he reports that he and his wife can’t say with complete certainty but they think the concert was in New York’s Palace Theatre on Broadway. They definitely recall that Piaf was “absolutely wonderful.” 

Edith Piaf in 1962

In 1962, Piaf married Théo Sarapo, a singer, actor, and former hairdresser. She and her new husband performed together until her death.

In 1963, at age 47, Piaf died of liver cancer. Piaf’s life style prohibited her from having a funeral mass by the Roman Catholic archbishop of Paris, but tens of thousands of bereaved fans are said to have lined the Paris streets to see her funeral procession and over 100,000 mourners are said to have attended the ceremony at Père Lachaise Cemetery.

Brian Smith, who came to listen to Edith Piaf songs on the recent snowy Sunday, happened to be in Paris immediately after the news of Ms. Piaf’s death came out. He said he will never forget the tangible pall that covered the city. (Smith was passing through Paris from Lucerne, Switzerland to Antwerp, Belgium where he would board a freighter to cross the Atlantic to New York to begin his professional career as an architect; little did he know that he would arrive in the States just as a darker pall enveloped that city after President Kennedy’s assassination.)  

Janine Kolb, who is French and grew up in central France at the same time Ms. Piaf’s career was taking off, wasn’t enamored by Edith Piaf when she was young. Now, she loves many of her songs, especially Non Je ne Regrette Rien and Hymne à L’Amour , and boy, can she belt out those tunes.

Janine Kolb and Ray DeMarco at the River House restaurant in Portsmouth, NH

I first saw Kolb sing Piaf with Ray DeMarco, one of the New Hampshire Seacoast’s best known jazz pianists. We had stopped by the River House Restaurant for a “quick drink” and ended up staying until they tore down and packed up all the gear. With DeMarco’s piano accompanying Kolb—who is petite, just a few inches taller than Piaf and donned a beret and Piaf’s signature dark clothes—we were transported back to mid-20th century Paris. What fun!

DeMarco, who has been playing the piano since he was 9 years old, has been playing in the Portsmouth, New Hampshire area for 30 years. He really enjoys playing Piaf’s music.

“I’m crazy about the French language,” he said, but quickly added, “Her melodies are so rich and beautiful that they are fun to do just instrumentally.”

On this recent Sunday afternoon, DeMarco and Kolb teamed up to do several Piaf songs (as well as a few other pieces).



La Vie en Rose, which is generally translated to mean “Life in Rose-Colored Glasses," is undoubtedly the song most associated with Piaf and considered by many to be her signature song, especially with the release of the 2007 movie by the same name. Piaf wrote the lyrics in 1944, allegedly inspired by a handsome American man she had seen, and Monnot wrote the melody. Her songwriting team was not keen on the song so Piaf did not sing it until in concert until 1946. It was an immediate hit and is credited with propelling Piaf into the international arena. It received a Grammy Hall of Fame Award 50 years later.


Hymne à l’Amour is another of Piaf’s signature songs written in the late 1940s. Piaf, inspired by her deep love for Cedan, worked with Monnot to write the lyrics. It seems that this song may be the favorite of both Kolb and DeMarco.  


Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien, translated "No, I don't regret anything," is another of Piaf’s trademark songs. With lyrics by Michel Vaucaire and music composed by Charles Dumont, it was dedicated by Piaf to the French Foreign Legion. In 1956, when the song was first recorded, France was in the midst of what became known as the Algerian War (1954–1962). The Foreign Legion adopted the song in 1961 (when forced to retreat) and it is still sung today when they march in parades.




Quel jour merveilleux! Such a gathering called for a special bottle of wine. We opened a 2001 Château des Fines Roches from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Like Madame Piaf, it was light bodied but rich and emotional in taste. We toasted to this famous French chanteuse who died 50 years ago in her villa in Grasse, on the Cote d’Azur. Apparently, Sarapo drove his deceased wife up to her beloved Paris so that it would appear that she had died in her birthplace, among her most devoted fans. Thus, there is some conflict about whether she died on October 11th or 12th. She is buried, next to her daughter, in Paris’ Père Lachaise Cemetery.

If you are a Piaf fan and in Provence, drop by Les Deux Garcons in Aix-en-Provence where Madame Piaf loved to have an apéritif or stay in the Negresco Hotel in Nice where she often stayed. If you are in Paris, there is the Musée Edith Piaf, the Père Lachaise Cemetery, and her old stomping grounds in her Belleville-Menilmontant neighborhood. For good information about where to go in Paris to follow Edith Piaf’s footsteps, see “The Echoes of Piaf in Paris” by Frederick Turner in The New York Times (1994)

I would welcome another snowy Sunday in New England if I knew we would be singing Edith Piaf songs again.



We are indebted to John and Linda Ellison for recording all of the songs for this post and, of course, to pianist Ray DeMarco and singer Janine Kolb who made the afternoon possible. 

   * Mon Légionnaire, composed by Raymond Asso with lyrics by Marguerite Monno, was recorded in 1936 by French singer Marie Dubas, but the song is much more associated with Piaf.

The growing demand for excellent rosés—and Provence’s ability to meet that demand—was unmistakably clear at “Provence in the City 2013,” a tasting of rosé wines in New York City last Tuesday. With over 30 wineries from the heart of the world’s eminent rosé region, this tasting was the largest collection of pink wine producers that the United States will see this year, according to Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence (CIVP), the French group that hosted the event.   

Chef Florian Hugo chats with the folks at the Chateau Vignelaure table where wines were served that my husband throoughly enjoyed.

Brasserie Cognac restaurant, in the heart of Manhattan, was the perfect setting for this annual event. An amazing array of hors d’oeurves were served under the watchful eye of executive chef Florian V. Hugo. This young chef, originally from Provence and with impressive culinary skills honed under the tutelage of Alain Ducasse in New York, Paris, Monaco and London, created a seemingly endless parade of savory and sweet foods, all of which underscored the immense versatility of the region’s dry rosés.

“Pinch me,” I said to my husband. “I’ve gone to Provence… or to heaven.” (I wouldn't know the difference.)

Les Quatre Tours Winery served two very pleasant rosé wines.

CIVP, otherwise known in the U.S. as the Provence Wine Council, is charged with promoting Provence’s rosé wines. Judging by the overflowing—and very happy—crowd of wine professionals and media folks, promoting Provence rosé is no longer required.   


Rosé is not a trend—once Americans ditched the cheap sickly sweet soft drink called “white zin” in favor of the more complex, serious rosés of Provence, there was no going back. The U.S. is the second largest consumer of rosé wines—14% of world-wide rosé consumption! (France is number one, not surprisingly.)

Nicolas Beausset, from Chateau de Calavon, served a good rosé that is incredibly affordable...but not yet available in the U.S. Anyone know a good importer?

France got a head start in drinking rosé. The Greeks introduced wine to the South of France as early as 600 BC and people in this area have been growing grapes and making wine ever since. It is the oldest wine region in France and is said to be rosé where wine originated . Today, Provence can boast that it is the world’s largest wine region of Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status rosés. 

Rimauresq Cru Classé served two excellent rosé wines.

Rosé has long been popular in Provence but the country’s demand for pink wine is rapidly increasing. Even though wine consumption in France has dropped, the consumption of rosé has continued to grow. For example, the demand for red wine decreased from around 78% of total wine consumption in 1990 to around 56% in 2011. But, the consumption of rosé wine climbed from around 11% to just over 27% in the same period—9 out of 10 French wine drinkers report that they drink rosé .

Mas de Cadenet's Arbaude rosé was very enjoyable.

Forty per cent of France’s rosés  come from Provence. Although readers of The Modern Trobadors know that excellent rosés are produced throughout Provence—for example, I have written about rosés from the Côtes-du-Luberon and the Coteaux de Pierrevert as well as the Vaucluse where Indication Géographique Protégée (Vins de Pays)  wines are made.  But the majority of Provence rosés come from the following AOCs: Côtes de Provence (73%), Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence (17%) and Coteaux Varois en Provence (10%). The CIVP represents those three appellations and reports that member wineries produce 95% of the region’s rosé.



Used, with permission, from www.winesof provence.com

As I wrote above, over 30 wineries from the aforementioned appellations were represented at this tasting.  All of the wines were excellent, which made this tasting very personal.  The wines with lots of points and awards—even a coveted gold medal from Le Mondial du Rosé—were not necesarially those that pleased my palate the most.   The greatest challenge was distinguishing just how far over the moon we were about those wines we liked the very most....there were so many.  Suffice to say that our tasting notes are, well, ours.  Your notes would undoubtedly be different. 
Finally, it bears reminding you that so much of the pleasure of a wine is derived from the food that accompanies it. Our choice of which wine to serve with a tofu-scamble tucked in a brioche cup would be different from our choice of wine to accompany yellowfin tuna tartare with a cilantro, lime, cucumber sauce.  (Yes, these were some of the hors d’oeurves that were served!)

Here are some of our notes:



This small producer is located on the outskirts of Pierrefeu-du-Var, just north of Toulon, in the heart of the Côtes de Provence. The two wines we tasted—Chapelle Gordonne and Vérité du Terroir—are both made from Grenache (80%) and Syrah (20%), but the grapes for the former are more carefully selected, making it the celebrity.  With 90 points from Wine Spectator and two Gold Medals (from Vinalies International and Mondial du Rosé) this powerhouse was simultaneously rich and delicate and bursting with flavor.

We were acquainted with these wines having had a memorable one (although I can't recall which one we had) with lunch in St. Tropez one summer.  The winery is located near this famous Riveria city and has only a few real rivals in the area.  Crisp and refreshing with a little minerally mouthfeel, we felt like we were on Nikki Beach again!  Their Rose et Or is exceptional.

The table of Jules Wines was one our last stops.  The sun was shining into this corner and the group that gathered around Maureen Daly from Barterhouse Imports laughed that we felt like we were in sunny Provence.  Both of the Côtes de Provence rosés she poured—Esprit de Provence and Jules—quenched our thirst with great finesse.  I preferred the former wine (with a blend of Grenache and Cinsault) but also really liked the latter wine (with a blend of Cinsault and Carignan).  My husband's opinion was the opposite.  The red wine was also good; a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, it was aptly named "Nectar."

The shapes of the bottles that were filled with Provence's pink wine were quite varied, as were the labels.  Chateau Pigoudet Insolite had both an unusual shape and an unusual label as well as an unusually appealing rosé.  With a beautiful pale rose color made from Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Grenache (40%), and Syrah (5%), it is described by the producer as "fresh and rich, silky and spicy texture, creamy and tangy, [with] citrus favors."    I thought it was delightful.  The second rosé, the Premiere, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Grenache (30%), Cinsault (30%), and Syrah (10%) and  has a more golden color. The producer describes this wine as having a "fresh aroma" of "strawberries, peach, banana, [and] hints of melon." This was my husband's favorite of the two. This producer hails from Rians in the eastern most corner of Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence.

The Cuvée Rosée d'Aurore from Domaine de la Foquette was one of four rosé wines presented by John O'Neill of Jeff Welburn Selections Importers.  John, pictured on the right, insisted that we taste this Côtes de Provence wine last of his four imports—and his advice was spot-on.  It was one of the most unusual and, to my husband and me, most appealing rosés that we had the pleasure of tasting.  My husband described it as rich and unctuous like a Viognier.  It is a blend dominated by Grenache (65%) with some Cinsault (30%) with a little of the white grape Rolle.  It would perfectly complement rich foods like lobster and has enough body to  hold its own with a juicy cheese burger and the works.  It is not for everyone but we really liked it.

We enjoyed all of his imports presented at the tasting, but another stand-out for me was the Côtes de Provence Rosé produced by Chateau de Pampelonne. Located near St. Tropez, this estate has been owned by the same family—the Gasquet-Pascaud family—since 1840.  This rosé is a blend of Grenache (40%, Cinsault (30%), Syrah (20%), and Tibouren (10%), the ancient Greek variety occasionally seen in Provence rosés.  It has a slightly deeper rose color than its companions.  I thought it had a lovely nose and a lot of flavor (the particulars of which I cannot decipher in my notes). 

One could not miss the bold label of this pretty pink wine.  Fortunately, the contents definitely live up to its big label.  Located, as the name suggests, just outside Aix-en-Provence, this wine is produced by Domaine de la Grande Seouve, a former truffle farm.  With newly renovated cellars, the estate's goal is to produce "the best rose in the world."  While they may not have reached their goal just yet, they are on their way.  We thoroughly enjoyed this blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Counoise grapes.  Judging by the awards and accolades, so have others.

Chateau Margui, next door neighbor to Brad and Angelina (as in Pitt and Jolie) in the Coteaux Varois en Provence, produces a light, delicate and very pleasing rosé. Lots of minerals in the mouth and a very satisfying finish. We are familiar with this vineyard because an acquaintance from a winery in the Luberon recently went to work there. The vineyard was purchased by a young couple, Marie-Christine and Philippe Guillanton, in 2000. Although wines had been produced for many decades on this property, the estate had been neglected since the early 1970s. The new owners worked tirelessly to revive the chateau and its vineyards (and the olive groves). It now has full organic certification, many awards, and some fine wines.

Chateau Roubine is one of the few Cru Classé wine producers in  the Provence appellation.  This lovely rosé is a blend of a long list of grapes:  Cinsault, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Tibouren, Syrah, and Mourvedre varieties. We really enjoyed this quintessential Provence rosé—dry, crisp, and infinitely refreshing—as well as their red. One of the oldest producers of wine in France, its roots go back to the Templars in the 14th century.  Its emblem of dragon, lion and sunbeams signifies its location between Draguignan (dragon) and Lorgues (lion) in sunny Provence.

As we roll in to our favorite village in Provence, I always feel good when I see Lourmarin's charming profile--the one that graces the masthead of The Modern Trobadors--and I know that when we round a few more corners, we will see its majestic château. This (mainly) Renaissance château, the first of this period in Provence, sits atop a hill, dominating the western view of the village, as it has--more or less--for at least 600 years.

An old Citroen in front of Les Caves du Chateau in Lourmarin

Today, this majestic building draws visitors from around the world--tourists who simply want to see this lovely castle as well as young artists, writers, and researchers who are invited to pursue their studies in this inspiring environment. It hosts concerts featuring internationally recognized musicians throughout the summer and lends its space to exhibits of the art work of internationally known artists. It is home to Les Caves du Château, one of our favorite places to taste and buy wine. And, its grounds are a wonderful spot to have a picnic. If all these reasons are not enough to motivate a visit to this château, I'm writing to let you know about another reason: A Renaissance Festival!



On the last weekend in April--the 27th and 28th--the château will go back to its roots. I am told there will be jousting and sword fighting, strolling mistrals and maybe even the opportunity to buy your own shield and sword--let's hope you won't need it!--or a goblet to fill with wine from Les Caves! As the photos reveal, people will be in costume--you are welcome to come in costume, too!--and, with the château as backdrop, you may feel as if you have been transported back in time.



It's a Renaissance Festival but it sounds like we might see some activities that extend back a few more centuries, too. And that would make historic sense on this property that was built on what is probably a 12th century foundation. As I wrote above, the château is mainly Renaissance in style--there is also its medieval foundation upon which Gothic style towers were built and later the Renaissance elements that dominate the castle.


A little history might be helpful here. The 15th century marked a new beginning for Lourmarin. After a long period of decline due to frequent pillages and the 14th century plague, Lord Foulques d'Agoult began transforming what was left of the 12th century fortress into a castle. In order to accomplish this formidable task, he arranged to have around 50 Vaudois families moved to Lourmarin to do the work. What is left of this effort is referred to as Château Vieux and consists of the Gothic style round tower on the Northeast corner and the hexagonal tower on the Southeast corner.

The construction of the remaining portion of the château began in 1526, under the guidance of the great-grand-nephew of Lord Foulques d'Agoult, Louis d'Agoult-Montauban, and his wife. There were interruptions over the next couple of decades, but with encouragement from King François I who visited Lourmarin in 1537, the work was completed in 1542. The final result was the Château-Neuf with a distinctly different style, reminiscent of the châteaux in the Loire Valley. The spectacular double spiral staircase adorns the interior of the château comes from this period.



Sadly, just a few years after the completion of the château, the religious wars of Provence broke out, followed by the brutal attack on the Vaudois inhabitants of Lourmarin (and surrounding villages). As many as 3,000 people in the Lubéron were slaughtered. The village was destroyed and the castle damaged and abandoned. Later, it escaped destruction during the Revolution only to be faced with its last days again in 1920. In the meantime, it was occupied by small farmers and "gypsies" making pilgrimages to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The latter group is said to have put a curse on the château as evidenced by their graffiti in the château of a sailboat encircled by strange birds with human faces.



Old Postcard showing le Chateau de Lourmarin

Sadness descended on the château again when Laurent-Vibert was killed in an automobile accident in 1925; but, the residents of Lourmarin worked to finish the work he had started. The château was restored and the foundation was created. In 1973, the château was classified as a Historic Monument.

Today, who can imagine Lourmain without its proud château? Although it now stands sentinel over Lourmarin, it ironically owes its very existence to the residents of this tiny village who, throughout the ages, worked to build, rebuild, and ultimately save its château.

I hope this brief history puts you in a mood to go back in time. I suggest starting with a grand crème at Cafe Gaby's, of course, before heading over to the château for an morning of Renaissance fun. Then tour the castle and let your imagination take you back in time. Taste some wine at Les Caves on your way out and, if you have a late picnic planned, pick up a bottle to toss in your basket. If you were fortunate enough to book a place to stay through RentOurHomeInProvence (our website where we list just a few lovely homes in Lourmarin), go back and pick up your basket and find an inviting spot near the château.

Caroline Galina, Adjunct Director of Cultural Affairs with Le Château de Lourmarin, said that this event debuted last year and was a huge success. About 1400 people attended and word on the street revealed that visitors had a whole lot of fun. This year's festival, Ms. Galina reports, will be even better! Mark your calendar!

The 2012 Poster for La Fete Renaissance

Yesterday I gave a talk to the International Women’s Club of New England. The subject was the Lubéron—not surprising, eh?—but what was surprising was which slide generated some of the most lively conversation, especially after the talk. 

This is a very sophisticated group of women (and yesterday there were two men in the audience) who have traveled widely and frequently. They are a savvy bunch. Many are from European countries, including France. And, yet, the thought that a paradise such as the Lubéron might have a few thieves in the mix was, well, inconceivable. Preposterous. And I understand why. How do you reconcile two such competing images?




Imagine yourself sipping chilled rosé, overlooking a sun-drenched vineyard that stretches to meet rows of olive trees, leaves glistening in the Provençal light. Sun flowers dancing on one side, fragrant lavender on the other. There are thieves out there too? C’mon…. Yup, even the idyllic Lubéron, Peter Mayle’s Provence, is not immune to crime. 

The first story I ever heard about crime in the Lubéron was the wildest. A newly acquired friend—a friend of a friend—had just purchased a lovely home in the countryside near a popular village. On his return from Switzerland to his new home, he and his partner, eager to begin retirement in Provence, arrived to find two legs dangling from the chimney into his fireplace (an image that haunted me for years). They belonged to a young man, deceased for several days by then, who had apparently read too many American Santa Claus stories. At least, he wasn’t able to steal anything. 

Gradually, we heard more stories. One scenario that emerged more than once from the stockpile of curious Provençal crime lore was peculiar to vacation homes: we called it “the-everything-including-the-kitchen-sink” burglary. Homeowners open their doors and find absolutely nothing. Not only are all the sinks gone, but the toilets have been lifted, too!

I hasten to underscore, before I go on, that France, in general--and Provence, in particular--has a very low rate of crime. A recently published report from the Minister of Interior showed that general crime in France dropped by 3 percent from 2009 to 2010. Although violent crime slightly increased (2.5%), the same report said that this small overall increase was due to a huge increase in smartphone thefts, particularly in Paris and its suburbs. (This type of theft is rampant in the United States as well.) Finally, in France, the number of homicides fell 40 percent over the past ten years and is at an all-time low.

Lourmarin at dusk

In Provence—especially in areas like the Lubéron—tourists should feel very safe. I know we feel completely safe in Lourmarin and the surrounding area where violent crime is virtually unheard of. However, thefts from cars—or of the car itself—are a concern for tourists (and locals), even in the Luberon.

Having had two cars stolen the year we lived in Lourmarin, we would concur. Rick Steves, in his most recent tour book, Provence and the French Riviera wrote that “[Auto] theft is a huge problem throughout Southern France.”

The first time it happened to us, we were propelled into a state of shock. Transfixed by the empty parking spot save for a small pile of glass, we simply couldn’t believe our eyes. We immediately enlisted the help of our friends in the village and commenced the first steps one takes when such an incident occurs.

What became immediately clear was that everyone knew what to do….because car theft was such a common problem. And yet, a dozen years ago when this first incident occurred, we were completely unaware of the extent to which this particular crime occurs in the quaint villages of Provence. Like most tourists, we thought that such crimes were confined to Marseille. But, on that beautiful fall morning, we were introduced to the underbelly of Provence and suddenly, as if we were now part of a secret society that “knew,” everyone was telling us, without great fanfare and with even a certain nonchalance, about his or her experience(s) with car theft.

I recall the owner of one of our favorite restaurants saying something like, “Ah, now you know what no one likes to talk about until you know.”

Rousillon

The small picturesque villages, it seems, are like magnets for “thieves from Marseille.” These villages are most likely to attract tourists with highly desirable late-model cars and the tiny villages don’t have local gendarmes. Some small villages, like Lourmarin, have gendarmes in the summer months when tourism is highest but relinquish them in the fall. Thieves, champing at the bit for the coast to clear, return with a vengeance in the fall, as they did that November in 2002. We discovered there had been a rash of auto thefts that week and apparently two weeks later when our second rental car was stolen.

It is probably time to assuage again any rising fears about travel to this area. Let’s put auto theft in perspective: I could not find statistics about Provence’s auto theft rate but I would venture a guess that it is higher than most other regions in France (perhaps due to its close vicinity to Africa where many of the cars are shipped). But, statistics comparing nations revealed that nine other countries have auto theft rates that are higher than those in France. United States is higher. As the table shows, Switzerland—who would have guessed?—ranks highest with over twice the rate of stolen cars!  (These statistics are based on reported thefts so perhaps Switzerland has a better reporting system, but twice as good?)

"Auto theft by country," European Institute for Crime Prevention and Control International Statistics on Crime and Justice, 2011.  Number of auto thefts per 100,000 population.  Click to enlarge.

We have never had another instance of car theft or any type of crime occur again in the Luberon (or anyplace else in France). I don’t have any statistics to back my thoughts, but, as a member of the group that now “knows,” it seems that car thefts have markedly decreased, at least in Lourmarin. I can’t recall any guests of our rental properties reporting such theft either. Unfortunately, thieves can show up anywhere. (In my own neighborhood in charming Portsmouth, New Hampshire, there was a spate of thefts from cars this past year.)

My guess is that Provence’s car theft rate gained its nortoriety because, as I wrote above, the idea of grand theft auto is radically incongruous with our usual images of Provence and particularly of our notions of life in “The Most Beautiful Villages of Provence.”  So incidents of stolen cars in this region perhaps take on greater prominence than those in other regions.

Gordes

In Provence’s large cities, thefts from cars—parked and stopped in traffic—remain a major problem. Another major concern, according to U.S. Overseas Security Advisory Council (OSAC) is the theft of luggage from conveyor belts and luggage trolleys (in airports and in railway stations in Marseille, Avignon, Nice, and Aix). Always be aware of pickpockets and snatch-and-run thieves who can very quickly grab your purse, suitcase, shopping bag, or smartphone, especially when your attention has been purposefully diverted, however momentarily. The U.S. Consulate in Marseille recently reported that there has been a rise in burglaries of vacation home rentals and of “necklace snatching.”

Marseille

Violent crime in Provence is very low everywhere except Marseille and, even there, about a quarter of violent crime is tied to drugs and organized crime, activities most tourists are not a part of. In 2011, compared to the previous year, robbery was up (23%), burglaries increased (14%), and armed robberies went up (40%).The murder rate increased by 9% in the first three months of 2011. By way of comparison, though, with 245 homicides over the last five years, your chances of being murdered in Marseille, according to my rough calculations, are about the same as in New York and much better than in Chicago. As Marseille begins its year as a Cultural Capital of Europe, everyone is hopeful that the expected injection of a billion euros into the city will help to loosen the grip that crime has long held on Marseille.

Although crime in Marseille is legendary, it bears mentioning that lovely Aix-en-Provence suffers from increasing crime. With all the students wondering around—earbuds in place, thumbs bobbing up and down, and eyes locked to tiny screens—it should be no surprise that smartphone theft is a real problem. But, so are the other types of crime mentioned above.

Aix-en-Provence

So what is a tourist in Provence to do? Plan ahead and pay attention (as you would anywhere). Most crimes are crimes of opportunity.

• Keep your valuables to a minimum when traveling and carry them in a pouch around your neck or in a money belt. Do you really need all that jewelry on vacation?
• Keep your smartphone in your pocket or zipped purse and pay particular attention when using it.
• Keep your passport(s) secure and separate from your other valuables. Make copies: leave one at home and carry another with you (separate from the passport).
• Use ATMs that are centrally located in well-lit areas.
• Be very mindful in large crowds such as markets, museums, railway stations, airports, and on public transportation.
• Be mindful of people approaching you for money, directions, to pet their animals, etc.
• It is important to note that your rental car is a more likely target than a local’s car. Rental cars are typically easy to identify by the decals the rental companies use. Until 2009, the license plates clearly identified where the car was registered, making out-of-town drivers easy to spot. Although the last two digits no longer serve this purpose, I think there are some tell-tale signs of rental cars.
• In Provence’s large cities, keep the car doors locked and use good judgment about when to keep the windows up. Park in well-lit and busy areas and pay attention when getting in and out of your vehicle.
• Remove all valuables from your car, a good rule wherever you are in the world. Another good piece of advice is to keep your maps and tourist guides out of view and stick a French newspaper on the seat--not because thieves refrain from targeting French speakers, but because they will break into the car that is most likely to offer rewards, which, unfortunately for all of us, is a tourist's car!
• Even when you think it would be okay to get out of the car and dash over for a look-see of the beautiful view, lock your car.
• Should you find that your vehicle has fallen victim to a crime, the following general guidelines may be helpful: file a report (in person) with the Gendarmerie, notify the rental car company, and, if insurance was provided through another source such as your credit card company, notify that company. Make sure to establish from your insurer--whether that is the rental car company, your credit card, or another agency--what information/copies of documents will be needed to file a claim. (If your insurance is provided through your credit card or through any other domestic agency, you might inquire--before you leave-- as to what materials would be needed if such an unfortunate event were to occur.)
• Emergency numbers in France, via mobile telephone, are 112 (general) and 17 (Police).

The Lubéron

There is nothing that would deter me from traveling to Provence. We have been to Lourmarin, tooled around the Lubéron, and travelled all around Provence again and again since November 2002. I suppose the greatest testament to my passion is that we bought property in Lourmarin a few years after our run-in with the alleged thieves from Marseille.

As a very seasoned traveler from the audience said to me yesterday, “I adore Provence and would even go to Marseille.” “Just be savvy," she said, “people need to be savvier.” “It’s worse in Italy,” she added, with a twinkle in her eye, as if the thought held some allure for her.

Yes, Virginia, there are thieves in Provence. Why wouldn’t there be?

This article is part of a series about our ten favorite markets in Provence. Thus far, we have written about Aix-en-Provence, Apt, Cadenet, Cucuron, Gordes, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, and Lourmarin. When we chose our top ten markets, we considered the quality and variety of the offerings, the friendliness of the vendors, and the ambience of the venue. Practical issues (e.g., traffic and parking) were also weighed, but, in the end, it was the market itself that mattered most. Get there early and avoid the inevitable traffic and parking challenges! These are the markets we visit again and again when we are in Lourmarin. 

Pont du Gard

Four standing columns of a Roman Temple of Apollo in Riez

The remains of an Aqueduct at Le Barbegal

Arles and Vaison-la-Romaine are thriving cities today, whose residents indifferently file past Roman remains that are so interesting and beautiful, the rest of us would be stopped in our tracks. I know; I have been stopped in my tracks in both cities. Evidence abounds that these ancient Roman cities were... also thriving and culturally vibrant. 

Glanum

Glanum, an archaeological site still under excavation, is another fascinating destination. Orange, home of the stunning Roman theater that attracts internationally famous names on stage and lots of patrons (including us) every summer, is another world class tourist attraction (year round).

Theatre Antique in Orange

Maison Carrée in Nîmes

Today’s post is about the humble Pont Julien, one of a handful of Roman bridges that remain in Provence. Le Pont Julien, over 2000 years old and perfectly preserved, remained in use—by cars and trucks—until a neighboring bridge was built in 2005! (You can now walk across the Roman bridge with no worries of 21st century vehicles speeding by!)

Le Pont Julien




I love this bridge and we often stop to admire it. If we’ve come from a market, we might grab a baguette and a wedge of brie from our basket to enjoy along the “river” bank. We marvel at the Roman engineering that it enabled the stones to be so precisely set in place that no mortar was required. (Mortar had not yet been developed.) It is not a big bridge—about 200 feet long—and comprises three perfectly proportioned arches. The center arch is larger than the other two arches, a design that allowed each pier to be mounted on solid bedrock. It took around 40 years to build.

If you are tooling around the Luberon, make a point to stop and walk around. Look for the remains of an older bridge at the base of the supports, upon which the Pont Julien was built. Note the apertures in each of the arches; these hollow passage ways were designed to enable to water to pass through the supports, thereby minimizing pressure on the piers when the river flooded, which, looking at today’s shallow stream, hardly seems possible.

Le Pont Julien

Living in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, I have recently thought a lot about the longevity of bridges. Our city is located at the mouth of the Piscataqua River, which I can see out my window, and, until recently we had three bridges to take us to Kittery, Maine, which I can also see out my window. In 2011, the Memorial Bridge, opened in 1923, was abruptly closed due to irreparable problems; about six months later it was demolished and another bridge is under construction to replace it. I know it is not an entirely fair comparison—the Piscataqua River is deep and has one of the strongest currents in the Northeast United States—but, still, 88 years?!

The second bridge that crosses the river, The Sarah Mildred Long Bridge, was built in 1940. That bridge was recently struck by a tanker ship that apparently broke loose from a nearby pier. Who knows when that bridge will be repaired but it was due to be replaced in 2015 anyway. The states of New Hampshire and Maine do not make decisions about costly infrastructure until absolutely forced to, so the bridge must have been in pretty bad shape, even before the tanker crashed into it. It looks like Sarah Long won't even be around for 75 years.



Via Domitia

When I think about the Roman bridges in Provence, especially the huge bridges built over 2000 years ago—like the Pont du Gard that has sustained massive flooding throughout the years—I wonder, can we bring back the Romans to build our bridges?

Roman bridge in Vaison-la-Romaine

Lots to ponder while admiring Le Pont Julien.

Vaison-la-Romaine

Lavender and Provence are inextricably tied together in the minds of almost everyone who yearns to visit—and revisit--Provence. What comes to your mind when you think of Provence? 

Someday I will survey people about the images “Provence” conjures up. But, in the meantime, I’ll put my euros on lavender as the first image that pops into the minds of most people.

  

Rosé wine, pastis, truffles, bouillabaisse, markets, the slow pace of life, the mistral, and Cézanne—all certainly contenders, but, to paraphrase France's well-known author Jean Giono, it’s the lavender that taps into the soul of Provence. Or, as the well-known English writer Peter Mayle wrote, perhaps less romantically but no less persuasively, “Where would the postcard business be without it?”

Questions about lavender are almost always the first to surface in any conversation about traveling to Provence. Just two days ago, while buying some Provence rosé in New York City—more on this very special rosé in an upcoming blog--I chatted with the congenial sales staff at Morrell Wine Store about Provence rosés. But once I mentioned that I write about traveling to Provence, the first words of one of the friendly clerks was: “Oh, I would love to go to Provence to see the lavender.” The day before that, I answered a telephone call about traveling to Provence. “When should I travel so that I can see the lavender?” was the first question. “I’ve been to Provence before, but I have never seen the lavender.”



To see those perfectly aligned rows of brilliant purple lavender grace the hillsides of Provence, maybe dotted with a borie or two, is an exquisite sight. The scent that wafts from the field is incomparable. If you are lucky enough to time your visit to see the sunflowers and lavender together, you will feel blessed by the gods.

Alas, we can’t all visit Provence in July. Late June through early August, when lavender is most likely to be in bloom, is also when the airlines hike their prices and when accommodation can be tough to secure. So consider spring. That is, now!

May is a glorious time to be in Provence. The sun is bright, the days average 70 degrees, the markets are coming to life, and then there are those dazzling bright orange poppies that are, well, popping up everywhere.  



Photo by Dave Sidders

Photo by Dave Sidders

Photo by Katy Elliott

Papaver rhoeas

Butterflies and Poppies - Van Gogh (1890)

Field with Poppies - Van Gogh (1889).

You may also be interested in reading these posts about lavender:

LAVENDER--A FLOWER ROOTED IN SUN-DRENCHED PROVENCE

LAVENDER FIELDS FOREVER?  NOT IF THE CICADELLE HAS ITS WAY

WITH LAVENDER, ROSEMARY, AN OLD 2CV, AND A BIG HEART, L'OCCITANE EN PROVENCE WAS BORN

Cabrières d’Aigues, home of the Domaine de Vaudois, is not on the typical traveler’s itinerary. It lacks the visible charm of other Luberon villages such as those featured prominently in a Rick Steves’ tour guide or a Peter Mayle novel. In fact, a quick google search for information about this village reveals little more than “a tranquil village in the Luberon” and the distance to neighboring villages, like Cucuron and Ansouis. But, don’t underestimate what you might discover in a morning in this unassuming village.



If you are interested in a destination that is slightly off the well-worn tourist path, plan a stop in Cabrières d’Aigues and drop by the Domaine des Vaudois. There, you can enjoy wine and taste olive oil in the 17th century vaulted rooms of this winery while hearing stories about the tumultuous history of Protestantism in Provence. You won’t be disappointed.

Cabrières d’Aigues

We spent a most memorable morning with... Claude Aurouze, whose son oversees the wine and olive oil production of the family’s property. Aurouze’s wife is a direct descendant of the Vaudois, a Christian sect that, in the 15th century, moved to the religiously tolerant Luberon and, several generations later, their peaceful existence was torn asunder in a misguided effort to protect the Catholic Church.

Madame Aurouze’s family can be traced back to one of the original 78 families that relocated to this village from what is now the Hautes-Alpes department of Provence. Monsieur Aurouze, a retired high school teacher, has made the Vaudois--researching their history and telling their story--his life’s work. His poignant stories will capture your heart.

Claude Aurouze

If you are from South Africa, you may be particularly interested in chatting with Monsieur Aurouze: many of the Vaudois of Cabrières d’Aigues eventually went to South Africa, via Holland, and took with them the knowledge of farming vineyards and producing wine. But, I am getting ahead of the story.

Walter Geiser, Claude Aurouze and Susan Manfull

The Vaudois movement was founded by Peter Waldo in the 1170s in Lyon, France. About ten years earlier, Waldo, a wealthy and learned man, was moved by trobadours’ stories of Saint Alexius who is said to have abandoned his comfortable life in favor of one of poverty. Waldo ridded himself of all his property and adopted a life of poverty. He began to preach the virtues of simplicity and a strict adherence to a literal interpretation of the bible, while criticizing the excesses of the Catholic Church. By 1170, his message had attracted a large following and a name: the Vaudois or the Waldensians.

Condemned by the Church in 1179 and excommunicated in 1184, the Vaudois were forced to flee Lyon. They settled in remote areas in Piedmont, South Eastern France, and eventually in the Luberon, too. Their message spread quickly and, in 13th century, the number of followers across Europe had grown quite large, especially in France, Germany, Poland, Austria, and parts of Switzerland. Around the same time, another Christian group emerged--the Cathars or Albigensians--that also challenged the basic tenets of the Church.

A street in Cabrières d’Aigues

In 1465, the Vaudois moved to the Luberon. They lived simply and productively. Most were farmers, many tending vineyards. Fifty or so Vaudois families were invited to Lourmarin by Lord Foulques d’Agoult to work on the building of Lourmarin’s château.

Monsieur Aurouze explained that during this period, villages in the Luberon were “either Protestant or Catholic.” The largest “Protestant” communities were Cabrières d’Aigues, Lourmarin, and Mérindol, but both groups lived amicably until the early 16th century when the unfounded fears and rumors led the Church to feel threatened by the “heretic ” Vaudois.

Claude Aurouze

In 1545, one of the bloodiest , most vicious attacks occurred, especially in Cabrières d’Aigues and Mérindol. As many as 3000 people were killed. Mérindol was burned to the ground. Lourmarin was set afire but was not destroyed. As many as 20 villages were burned. It is said that at least 800 men, women, and children were captured and taken to Marseille to be tried for heresy. Over 200 people reportedly died while waiting to be tried and the rest were sentenced to forced labor in prison.

The brutality of the attacks in the name of the Catholic Church were widely condemned by influential members of the Church. Life gradually went back to normal. By this time, the Vaudois had begun to adopt the Calvinist teachings and were generally referred to as the Huguenots. The Protestant movement grew and, by 1560, there were 60 Protestant churches in Provence. In 1562, the Wars of Religion began with a vengeance and horrible acts were committed by both sides. The Vaudois fled the villages in to the caves of the Luberon, not to return for several years.

The Protestant Church in Cabrières d’Aigues

In 1598, the Edict of Nantes was promulgated, supposedly giving the Protestants most of the civil and religious freedoms afforded Catholics. But tensions remained and laws were enacted to limit these freedoms. By the time the Edict was revoked in 1685 most of the Huguenots had already fled Cabrières d’Aigues and the Luberon.

Many of the descendants of the original Vaudois families of Cabrières d’Aigues made their way to Holland and, eventually to South Africa. There, they started the vineyards that, today, produce some of the best Franschhoek wine. Some of the wineries--Haute Cabrière, La Motte, Anthonij Rupert L’Ormarins--have names reminiscent of their Luberon roots.

Wine from the Franschhoek valley in South Africa

Monsieur Aurouze said that many visitors from South Africa drop by to hear about the history of the Vaudois and to learn more about their own families that once lived in this unassuming village in the Luberon, as many as 500 years ago.

Names of the families from Cabrières d’Aigues that settled in South Africa

Domaine des Vaudois wine, AOP (AOC Luberon) comes in all colors and is very enjoyable. We were particularly taken with the Viognier wine. We brought several bottles back to Mas du Bassin where we were staying.

Visiting La Domaine des Vaudois

The olive oil is excellent--light and very flavorful. In 2009, they began converting their groves to “organic farming” and with this year’s harvest, the olive oil will be officially organic. If time permits, perhaps you might be able to see the 17th century olive oil mill.

Olive Oil Mill

Olive Oil Mill

The wine shop, located in the center of the village on rue du Temple, is open from May to September, daily from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and from 4:00 to 8:00 p.m. From October to April, the shop is open daily from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.

Domaine des Vaudois

If you are interested in talking to Monsieur Aurouze, call him at least a few days in advance at 04 90 07 73 33.

Lunch with Walter Geiser and Claude Aurouze

Cabrières d’Aigues may not be oozing with charm like its well-known neighboring villages but it has a certain allure that we found very charming (and, Monsieur Aurouze is irresistible). The village may not be on the itinerary of the typical tourist….I guess you must ask yourself if you are the typical tourist.

Lunch in Cucuron at Le Boudoir de Leon A special thanks to Walter Geiser for introducing us to Claude Aurouze

 

Château Miraval       Photo: http://www.miraval-provence.com/

Readers of a certain age may be able to dust off an old album that was recorded, in part, in this château: Pink Floyd’s legendary The Wall.
French jazz pianist Jacques Loussier, who owned the property from the late 1970s to the early 1990s, installed a recording studio in the chateau. Loussier initially recorded his own work and later invited French clients like Maxime Le Forestier and Pierre Vassiliu. In 1979, the popular British rock group, Pink Floyd, came to this studio to record their historic rock opera, The Wall.

After Pink Floyd, and the addition of France’s first “Solid State Logic” mixing console—read really high-end recording gear—the list of prominent musicians who recorded their work in Loussier’s “Studio Miraval” grew to include AC/DC, The Cure, Muse, Wham!, Sade, Steve Winwood, Yes, UB40, the Gipsy Kings, Queen, Sting, and Elton John.

When Loussier wasn’t recording music, he produced vin de pays wine in all three colors.

In 1993, American winemaker Tom Bove purchased the property and added a few amenities like a spa, a Jacuzzi, two gyms, and an indoor pool; modernized the wine production; and eventually made a highly acclaimed rosé he named “Pink Floyd” in recognition of the rock band that made the chateau famous in the music world. He also produced white and red wines.

Map of Provence Wine Region Used, with permission, from www.winesofprovenceUSA.com

The 1000-plus acre (500 hectare) estate is located in the heart of the Var Department of Provence, in the plain but pretty village of Correns, just north of the rather unremarkable town of Brignoles (which you may have to drive through to get there but which bears no resemblance to the lovely and lush environs of Château Miraval).

Although this area was inhabited by... people long before the Romans arrived in the 3rd century BC, their via Aurelia, one of the main roadways from Rome to new territories, cut through this area and encouraged Roman settlement (along with requisite vineyards and baths). In the 13th century, a monastery was built on the land and vineyards were planted. In the 15th century, members of French nobility occupied the estate. In the mid-19th century, Joseph Lambot, inventor of reinforced concrete, lived in the property and is said to be responsible for the huge wine cellar.

The château comprises 35 rooms and includes a separate chapel and a moat. It is surrounded by gorgeous gardens and a rich forest of evergreen and white oak. Water is plentiful and fills the many fountains that dot the grounds. Ancient stone terraces, planted with grape vines, traverse the property and provide protection from the Mistral. Thirteen varieties of olive trees grace the property and abut the other vineyards which, all together, total over 100 acres (over 40 hectares) of grape vines. The Cinsault variety vines are quite old.

Even from their helicopter, Brad and Angelina are said to have fallen in love with the property and, in 2008, they leased the estate for three years with an option to buy. In 2011, they consummated the deal with a purchase price of $60 million. In March, they released their first rosé, called simply “Miraval.”



Could the glam couple produce a good rosé? While they are not known for their viniculture skills, they did have several things going for them.

First, Provence, according to the Conseil Interprofessionnnel des Vins de Provence (CIVP), is the birthplace of rosé wine. This wine region, according to the CIVP, is the largest producer of AOC rosés in France, making 40% of France’s rosés and 8% of the world’s rosés. Most of the rosés hail from the Var department in the appellations of Côtes de Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence. (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence is the third major appellation in this region.) This region, where days are sunny and nights are chilly, is the home of excellent pale, dry but fruity, fresh, well-balanced and substantive rosés.

Photo:  Francois Millo/CIVP

Second, the vineyards had already provided grapes over the years for the widely acclaimed Pink Floyd rosé. Most of the wines—rosé, red, and white—are produced under the Côtes de Provence appellation although the whites are also made under the Coteaux Varois en Provence appellation.

Third, Brad and Ange teamed up with Marc Perrin and family, owners of the highly esteemed Château Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-de-Pape, to produce (and distribute) this wine (as well as the whites and reds). (Although it is this CdP wine that is most often referenced in Château Miraval articles about Jolie-Pitt’s partner in winemaking, let it also be noted that Famille Perrin makes other rosés at the opposite end of the price and quality spectrum: notably the ubiquitous and quite quaffable La Vielle Ferme Rosé and the distinctly unpalatable La Ferme Julien Rosé, sold at Trader Joe’s.)

Apparently Brad and Angelina took a very active role in making the wine: they invested in new equipment (including stainless steel tanks), participated in the blending sessions, and contributed to the development of the new (squat, Champagne-like) bottle shape, and the understated style of its label.



The first 6,000 bottles of this much anticipated rosé sold out in six hours in France. But is it good? Up until the point that the wine actually crossed the lips of one of the wine critics, it seems that, in spite of the chateau’s pedigree, all pundits were skeptical about the Brangelina release. (I mean, really, there must be something they don’t do well….but, apparently not.)

The wine is terrific and is garnering scores in the 90s (on a 100 point scale). It received 90 points—outstanding—in a Wine Spectator blind tasting of several rosés from Provence.

Grape Varieties (Clockwise from top left - Grenache, Syrah, Rolle, Cinsault) Photo: Francois Millo/CIVP

The wine is made from grapes from several of the domaine’s “best parcels” as well as grapes from selected nearby vineyards. It is a blend of red grapes—Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah—and the white grape, Rolle (also known as, Vermentino). The grapes are hand-picked and hand-sorted, something a good friend of mine can attest to—because she did exactly that in the Miraval vineyards a couple summers ago. According to the chateau’s website, “The Syrah is vinified by saignée, the other varieties by direct pressing and about 5% of the cuvée with batonnage.” (Batonnage refers to “stirring by hand.”)

This wine, like all Château Miraval wines, is organic, a quality that immediately endeared the Perrin family to this estate. The Perrins were early converts, back in the 1950s, to organic grape growing.

Mis en Bouteille par Jolie-Pitt & Perrin

Because this rosé was said to be so scarce, I didn’t think we would be able to try it. But, while in New York recently, I stumbled upon some in the Morrell Wine Store in Rockefeller Plaza. There it was: the short squat (but elegant) bottle practically hidden by the adjacent taller bottles of rosé. Thinking that there would at least be a sign promoting the celebrity rosé, I couldn’t believe that it was actually Brad and Ange’s wine. I couldn’t find my reading glasses to read the very small and faint letters stating “MIS EN BOUTEILLE PAR JOLIE-PITT & PERRIN,” but, clearly, the shape of the bottle smacked of Jolie-Pitt and Perrin.

Wine consultants at Morrell Wine Store - Yung Leung, Harriet Hendler, Ken Maykut

I was thrilled, a feeling easily recognized by the three Morrell wine consultants. They were excited, too (or perhaps just amused at my exuberant response). But, a long interesting conversation ensued about the purported scarcity of the greatly anticipated rosé—Ken Maykut, one of the wine consultants, told me that while reading an article about the scarcity of this wine, he was thinking to himself that he was sure he had seen upwards of 200 bottles in their stock room—and the growing trend of celebrities producing wine and other forms of alcohol (like Dan Aykroyd’s skeleton head of vodka which Morrell also carries). The wine retails there for $27.95—très cher for a bottle of rosé but its allure was too great for this writer to resist. With research in mind, of course, I bought two bottles.

Today, I found out that one of our local wine merchants, Dave Campbell of Ceres Street Wine Merchants, also has a supply of Château Miraval rosé! They go for $23 a bottle in his store.

Is it good? An unequivocal “yes.”



It is elegant and soft but with a substantive finish. I taste fruit and flint. The pale pink color is very pretty. Win Rhoades, proprietor of South Street and Vine Wine and Cheese Store in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, said that it is “light in mouth with a surprisingly large finish.” Dave Campbell tasted strawberries and agreed that the finish pleasantly lingered. My husband tasted hints of citrus that became increasingly apparent on the finish. All agreed that it is a very pleasing wine.

Are there as good rosés for less? Absolutely and, in the coming weeks, The Modern Trobadors will recommend some of our favorite rosés from Provence. But, Château Miraval rosé is a serious wine, a celebrity in its own right, and I would recommend splurging for this rosé for the sheer fun of it.

Put The Wallon the turntable and enjoy.

On the day of departure, my brother and I were roused from sleep at four o’clock in the morning to “get a good start” on our 2000-mile drive from the Central Valley of California to the center of Mexico. The average family did not drive to Puebla, Mexico in the early 1960s because there were very few roads normal folks would want to drive on. (Ah, but we were anything but normal.)

Road conditions were a huge consideration or, even more basically, would there still be a road...
when the Newman family came tooling along? Despite our best-laid plans—always with advice from our faithful partner, Triple A—occasionally there wasn’t a road for one reason or another. The availability of “services” was another issue; that is, would there be amenities like gas stations, restaurants, and motels? Although this factor couldn’t have been weighed too heavily by my parents since my father’s foot seemed to be permanently glued to the gas pedal once we boarded the car; with so painfully few bathroom stops, my brother and I might have been training for Kennedy’s Race to the Moon (but my father was a died-in-the-wool Republican, so that was not his goal). Personal safety was another consideration—there were no drug cartel sorts toting machine guns back then but thieves were certainly rumored to prey on gringos like us. I hasten to add that nothing of the sort ever happened in all the years we drove below the Rio Grande.

So, for reasons like the aforementioned, we always found ourselves on the rather circuitous route through Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas before we even went south of the border. It was an interminably long drive for my brother and me (and probably my mother, too). But when we were not arguing or pleading for a merciful bathroom stop (or at least a big bush), the long drives were interesting—my mother would say “Their eyeballs were as big as saucers” when telling others about our experiences—and, even then, if asked by a stranger, I would confess that they were fun.

Photo: David Scott Allen

My husband came from a family that took similar trips and we both agreed that family vacations were really important. We have taken our daughter many places--near like the coast of Maine and far like Argentina—but Provence, as many readers know, captured our hearts and has been a main destination for our family for many years.

So, what do kids like to do in Provence? Based on our experiences with our daughter as well as with many young folks who have visited us in Provence, we offer the following recommendations for memorable vacations:

1. Stay in one place for at least a week. Familiarity breeds comfort and confidence, especially important feelings for children and feelings that will encourage them to become acquainted with the new culture and maybe even try out a few French words. We prefer vacation homes so that we can prepare meals and really relax after a busy day.

Village of Lourmarin

2. Stay in a small village where, depending on their ages, the children can roam around relatively freely. Lourmarin has long been our first choice. We rented a village house and later owned our own home in the heart of the village. There, our daughter could walk to the Tabac or Patisserie where she could practice her French and develop a self-assuredness and poise even in a foreign culture.

17th century bridge over the Aiguebrun river

Fort Buoux, a few kilometers further is another rewarding hike. Drive a couple kilometers up the D943 and turn right toward Buoux. Follow the signs for Les Seguins and Fort Buoux until you come to a parking lot. Walk along the dirt road, past a large overhanging rock, which turns into a path that takes you to the caretaker’s door where you will pay a nominal fee allowing you to continue on to the remains of this medieval fort. Consider taking a picnic lunch to enjoy while you take in the panoramic views of the Luberon. (Note: this is an activity for agile and sure-footed children who will follow the guidance of adults as the paths are rocky and somewhat steep in places and there are not protective guardrails at the edge of sheer drop-offs.)

Pont du Gard

Glanum

Glanum, a recently excavated Greco-Roman sight near Saint Remy, offers the opportunity to walk around this recently excavated community that dates back over 2000 years.

5. To experience what Provence was like in the Middle Ages, we recommend Les Baux de Provence, Tarascon’s castle, and Lourmarin’s castle.

Les Baux de Provence

Les Baux, both a restored medieval village and fortress, is a must-see destination. Too much to write here and it is described in every tour book, so suffice to say that, despite its transparent appeal to tourism, this ancient village is charming and the notorious fortress is amazing. From the top of the rocky cliff upon which the village and fortress are perched, there are spectacular views of the surrounding valley and the Alpilles mountains. Arrive early and definitely rent the audio guides. (Note that Fort Buoux is the same period.)

A thoroughly modern experience (next to Les Baux) that is a huge hit with kids is Carrières de Lumières-- definitely consider a visit there.

Tarascon’s 15th-century château sits on the edge of the Rhone River. Austere and foreboding on the outside, it is inviting and fascinating on the inside. Lourmarin’s château lacks the grandeur of Tarascon’s castle (from roughly the same period) but is still definitely worth a visit, especially if staying nearby.

6. The Village des Bories is an open-air museum of restored stone huts (bories) that date back 200 to 500 years and were inhabited until the early 19th century. Stone huts probably pre-date the Romans and can still be spotted in fields in the Luberon. This collection of 20 or so structures consists of dwellings, animal pens, and storage huts. No mortar in the whole village. Lots of walking, lots of opportunity for discovery and imagination.

Village of the Bories (above), Gordes (middle) and Abbaye de Senanque (below)

This Village is near the quintessential hill-top town of Gordes and the 12th-century Cistercian Abbaye de Senánque.

7. For a trip to a city, we recommend Aix-en-Provence. There is something for all ages in this sophisticated city, known as the “Paris of the South.” Two museums to consider are the Musée Granet, referred to as a museum of “Archeaology and Fine Arts,” it houses a small but impressive collection of paintings by well-known French, Italian, and Dutch artists, including Aix’s Cezanne, and interesting artifacts from the nearby Celto-Ligurian archaeological site, Entremont (that can also be visited). The Natural History Museum has dinosaur eggs—need I say more?-- and other fossilized remnants left from the days that dinosaurs roamed the South of France. There is also lots of shopping, an English book store, and a cinema that features movies catering to English speakers. For people watching, you can’t beat Les Deux Garcons.

Les Deux Garcons

8. Another museum to consider would be La Petite Provence du Paradou, where over 400 Santons, those precious tiny clay figures that compose the Provençal crèches, may be found in all sizes and characters. If you plan ahead, you may even be able to make your own Santons.

La Petite Provence de Paradou

9. Provence, of course, is known for its weekly markets. If you are visiting in the peak tourist season, make sure to arrive early at these markets. The popular markets will get very crowded as the morning progresses and may be overwhelming to children and very difficult to navigate while juggling a basket and holding a little hand. Depending on the ages of your children, give them each their own basket, a purse of Euros, and an assigned purchase. (Stay away from the cute kitties and puppies as the adults that run that operation will reel you in with sympathy and then beseech you to make donations to help the animals.)

Cassis Port (above) and the beach near the Port (below)

Fete Votive of Lourmarin (above and below)

12. Places to eat with children are many in the Luberon area. In Lourmarin, my list would include any of the cafes (we favor Café Gaby), Pizzeria Nonni, and take-out pizza from Le Pan Garni. I would not discourage you from taking well-behaved children to any of the gastronomic restaurants, though, as parents don't want to miss such an experience and what better time to introduce your child to fine dining?

Lunch at Auberge des Seguins

Photos: David Scott Allen

For ice cream, pack the kids in the car and head to L’Art Glacier just past Ansouis.

Finally, there are glorious spots for picnics all over the Luberon. One of our favorites is in La Forêt des Cèdres (the Cedar Forest near Bonnieux).

When children are young, we suggest eating lunch out and dinner in and we always carried a sketch book for drawing and a note book for writing.

13. Striking a nice balance between keeping busy and relaxing was a goal from which we never strayed too far. Both require planning on the part of the parent. Bring a sketch book, a note book, a diary, and an age-appropriate French translation book. Create games like an I-Spy list for the area in which you are traveling or even for a specific place such as a market. See who can be first to find a baguette, endive, scarves, Provençal fabric, honey, olives, a basket made in Africa. Consider giving your children cameras to capture “A Day In Provence.” One young girl we know took Beanie Babies with her and photographed them in places she liked. We often gave slide presentations to our daughter’s elementary school classrooms—such a project gave us all a fun way to focus as we toured around Provence. Encourage your child to pick out post cards and write notes to friends and family at home or even send them to him or herself at home so that there will be a record of the trip to talk about when you return.


14. Pre-trip preparation is important. Begin by locating your destination on a map so that your child can see where you are going. How far away is it? What countries does it neighbor? Find photos in books or online of your destination. Depending on their ages, allow them to choose (from a few of your options) what would be fun to do or see. Practice some French. Read French books—the comic book Asterix can be fun for kids and adults alike—and watch French movies—A Year In Provence, filmed in the Luberon, is a good choice for older children and adults.

15. Connecting via social media: "To allow or not allow" is a question all families now face on vacation. We dodged this issue—our daughter’s age and the lack of Internet availability in small Provence villages were the main reasons—but, except for trips into the depths of the Amazon, families with children of a certain age can no longer escape the question. I urge you to set time limits on social media. One of the main reasons to take a family vacation is to be with the family. A good compromise might be to allow the child to have a blog where photos can be posted and stories of vacation adventures can be shared. It may be appropriate to encourage your children to exchange Facebook information with any new friends they make so they can continue to communicate. It is worth noting that many kids secretly relish the thought of being "unplugged."

Photo: David Scott Allen

For years I thought I didn’t like melon. However inviting those deep orange slices of juicy cantaloupe appeared, I knew they tasted like cardboard and had the texture of baby food. 

One of my most vivid memories of melon encounters goes back to adolescence: I was staying with a best friend’s family in their cabin in Shaver Lake, a small community nestled in the Sierra Nevada’s of California. I came to the breakfast table and, to my horror, found half of a cantaloupe waiting for me. Panic set in: how could I possibly eat the entire half? Jeralynn and her sisters dug their spoons in with a relish I would reserve for a bowl of dark chocolate ice cream and were finished long before I had managed to swallow just a few bites. When the scrambled eggs arrived—eggs whisked to perfection with a dash of Worcester sauce—I was still working on the melon ordeal. It’s funny that I now can’t recall the fate of the melon but the image of it, staring me down, remains as salient as it did that morning.

I doubt that I let another melon cross my lips until I went to Provence and met the Cavaillon melon. And it was love at first bite. This melon, called the French Charentais from the species Cucumis melo cantalupensis, is succulent, flavorful and fragrant. This European cantaloupe, unlike the North American cantaloupe I grew up with, is a melon into which I plunge my spoon with such unabashed enthusiasm that I prefer to eat it alone in the kitchen.



With these coveted melons starting to appear in the markets in Provence and Cavaillon’s annual Melon Festival—Fête du Melon—quickly approaching (June 29-30), I thought it was a good time to turn our attention to Cavaillon and its famous melon.

Cavaillon was a rather unremarkable town of about 25,000 people, until melon mania put...
it on the map about 25 years ago. To be fair, it has a Roman arch, a 12th-century chapel, an 18th-century synagogue, an 18th-century cathedral, and Chez Auzet’s famous baguettes, but most people know about Cavaillon now because of the melon.


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Melon cultivation in this area of Provence probably dates back to the 14th century when nearbyAvignon was the seat of the popes. Apparently, the popes were very fond of melons and grew them in their gardens in Cantelupo, near Rome. It is thought that they brought the seeds of these European cantaloupes with them. By the end of the 19th century, the popularity of this melon was widespread and the Cavaillon produce market drew patrons from all around the area. It is said that Alexandre Dumas, author of The Count of Monte Cristo and The Three Musketeers, donated copies of his books to the public library of Cavaillon in return for a life-time supply of the town’s famous melons.

In the early 20th century, the Charentais melon was introduced to Cavaillon. Now known as “the Cavaillon melon,” this coveted variety of melon actually originated in the Poitou-Charentes region of France, most known for its cognac production. This melon has a particularly potent fragrance reminiscent of flowers and peaches, a luscious sweet taste, like a jar of honey, with a substantive texture that is the antithesis of baby food.

In 1978, an important juncture on the melon’s path to gastronomic fame occurred when French chef Jean-Jacques Prévôt serendipitously ended up in Cavaillon and was introduced to the Charentais melon (as well as the young woman who would become his wife). Three years later, he opened Restaurant Prévôt, a gastronomic restaurant that emphasizes locally grown produce with a particular focus on…guess what! Today, his summer melon-based five-course menu remains one of his most popular offerings. In the latest Michelin Guide (2013), Restaurant Prévôt was awarded a much deserved star.



In 1987, the Conférie des Chevaliers de l’Ordre du Melon was formed with the mission of maintaining the integrity of the melon, improving its cultivation, and promoting its cultural significance to Cavaillon. Since 1997, when the melon festival was introduced, this brotherhood, dressed in black robes and wearing ribbons supporting melon medallions around their necks, has ushered in each year’s crop of melons with great pomp and circumstance.

“Melon mania” is clearly the driving theme during this two-day fête. Much like a pumpkin festival in New England—except the smell that permeates Cavaillon is infinitely preferable—melons are arranged every which way and dressed up in creative costumes. Melons are served in every form imaginable, from straight out-of-the-rind to syrup and liqueur and candy and pie. There are culinary demonstrations, music, dancing, parades, and lots of celebration. For a Cavaillon melon is indeed something special.



Cavaillon melons are grown from seed and require 80 to 85 days to reach maturation. In April, Cavaillon melons from heated greenhouses start to appear in the markets and in May, those from unheated greenhouses begin to surface. In June, those from heaven arrive—grown en plein champ, these melons were allowed to ripen in the fields under the warm Provençal sun. Experienced growers know just when to pick them—they examine their skin, feel them, tap them, smell them, and caress them. A tell-tale sign of ripeness is the “drop of blood” which refers to the sugar that has leaked out and crystallized. To be classified a “Melon de Cavaillon,” the melon must meet certain requirements for density, sugar content, and appearance. 

I am always amazed at the accuracy with which a vendor of Cavaillon melons can predict when the melons will be perfectly ripe. “I’d like one for tomorrow morning and three for dinner on Sunday,” I might inform the farmer. He will carefully inspect a few melons and pick out four. He’s always spot-on.



Cavaillon melons not only taste good but they are filled with good things for you. In addition to lots of bioflavonoids, they are loaded with beta-carotene (which the body converts to vitamin A) and vitamin C, both antioxidants, as well as potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron, zinc, copper, manganese, iodine, and a fair amount of fiber. Because they are just slightly larger than a softball, a half-melon is the perfect size and is only 100 calories or so.

The flesh of Cavaillon melons is so rich in ingredients that promote the growth of collagen and tame the free radicals that hasten aging that a French cosmetic surgeon, Dr. Jean-Louis Sebagh, incorporates it into his skin-care products. You may have seen his alluring infomercials with Cindy Crawford. I was more intrigued than persuaded by these half-hour long promotions—referring to Cavaillon as “a remote region in the south of France, where scientists have cultivated a rare melon containing a powerful super-antioxidant ” bordered on false advertising to me—but my mother was curious and sent away for the products. The “Meaningful Beauty” package arrived when I was visiting her last winter so I got to try them and must confess that I really liked the array of day and night serums and creams for eyes, face, and neck (although I am not any closer to looking like Cindy Crawford).

I would definitely prefer to eat the Cavaillon melon than put it on my face, but very few leave France. Charentais melons are now grown in this country. I have never seen one stateside but I read in a recent Saveur article that they are sold at the “Bulich stand at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City.” They are grown on a farm near Albany and are brought to the City twice each week, beginning late July.

I would love to introduce Jeralynn and her family to Cavaillon melons…though I might serve them after dinner with a little Beaumes-de-Venise splashed in the center.